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    • #48214
      Glenn
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      Mornin everybody 🙂

      The wife has picked me up a project for the holidays!  Officially I’m not supposed to know about it yet, but….. It’s a 1906 Winchester take down pump action in 22 short, long, or long rifle that will need some work…

      I know it will never be an original safe queen, so I’m looking at replacement parts to get it up and running.  It doesn’t have a forend.  The buttstock is loose and the buttplate is broken.  The rear sight is missing.  The inner magazine tube is missing.  Are there other models that I can look at for wood and magazine tube parts?

      I looked at Boyd’s and they only have a buttstock listed.  Is there another model that might fit so I could get a matching set?

      Brownells has a stock set, screw set, and an inside magazine tube.

      Numrich has front and rear sights, and also the forened screws and escutcheons.

      Is there anything else I should look at?

      Here are some pics.

    • #48226
      Goodsteel
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      I know this rifle very well. I just recently reworked one that was completely worn out. I built up the worn areas with the TIG welder, and installed an insert to replace the stripped threads in the receiver.

      Winchester had two rifles of almost identical design, the 1906 being the later model. The other one was a 1890.

      The best place to find parts for this is E-bay. Stocks can be easily found for about $75 for the forend, or $200 for a new set in the rough. The Magazine tube is about $35. Everything you need is right there.

    • #48253
      Bodean98
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      I rebuilt my grandfather’s old 1906. It resided in the corner of the milk barn for as long as I can remember. I even asked my dad how old it was and he said he can only remember it being in the milk barn! The barrel was loose from being over torqued, the stocks were there but just barely, pitting and pipe wrench marks all over it from tightening the barrel. It was a real mess. I was able to restore it to near new. Your best bet for parts is Ebay! Numrich can supply certain parts as well. I replaced my stocks with ones carved by me from locally grown walnut.

      Just a thought, something I learned the hard way.  The magazine tube ferrules twist in. They are not dovetailed. Repairing that mistake took me quite a bit of time!!!!

    • #48261
      Glenn
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      I ordered new stocks from Boyd’s, and new sights, new magazine tube, and screw kit from nuemrich.  With how beat up the metal is, I didn’t think it would harm it to go with new parts.

    • #48381
      Glenn
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      I got a closer look at it today, and the barrel barely has any rifling in it at all. I may have to look at drilling it out and glueing a liner in.

      I”m off for the last 3 days of Deer season 🙂

    • #48433
      Glenn
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      Does anybody know if the 62A barrel will fit the 1906 frame?
      I’m thinking of just replacing the barrel instead of drilling and putting a liner in it.

    • #48437
      Goodsteel
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      I have both rifles in the shop right now. Comparing them (and not pulling the barrels) they appear to be identical in the threads. I would assume they are basically interchangeable. Whether they would both clock identically is anyone’s guess. The forward tube hangers are in identical spots, but the loading port, and the rear hangers are different due to the longer pump on the 62A.

      Might be worth a shot if you find a deal on a barrel, but understand that a LOT of things would have to miraculously line up in order to be a direct replacement, and if they don’t, you’d almost be better off starting with a Green Mountain blank and turning a new barrel from scratch. Personally, I would sleeve it. That’s a pretty easy job in comparison.

    • #48445
      Glenn
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      I got out bid on the fleabay auction today, so I think I’ll just drill and sleeve it.  That will keep the original markings on the barrel as well.

      I’ve got the action working pretty smoothly, but still need an extractor and the firing pin stop will need replaced also as it was rusted through next to one of the screw holes.  Other than that it does go bang, lol.

    • #48462
      Goodsteel
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      Use TJ’s liners. I have the drill here and I’d be happy to help you drill it out (doing this with a hand drill is a real PITA).

      JB Weld is an excellent adhesive to use to hold the liner in place. It will even survive the bluing tanks.

      Use a 60 degree hardened center to flare the muzzle end of the liner, and tap it in place. This creates a seamless crown at the muzzle that cannot be detected very easily.

      Relining in this way, I have made several competitors very very happy.

    • #48498
      Glenn
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      Is TJ’s sold at track of the wolf?  can’t seem to find a link to them.

      Is your drill for the 5/16 or 3/8 liners?

      I’m wondering about draw filing the sides of the action.  The right side has some pretty deep pitting,

      the left isn’t too bad.

       

    • #48499
      skeettx
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      Why not bead blast it and leave some of the personality it

      has earned 🙂

       

      No rifling in the barrel?

      Could it just be leaded up?

      Mike

    • #48502
      Glenn
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      The patch gets a little tighter in the middle of the  barrel, but is much looser at the muzzle and chamber ends.

      This is the muzzle end.

      this is the middle of the barrel

      this is the chamber end

       

    • #48518
      Goodsteel
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      Yep, it’s gone. Definitely time for a liner.

    • #48519
      lkydvl
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      Or use it for bird shot!

    • #48687
      Glenn
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      The liner, drill and reamer came in this week. So I got started drilling out the barrel last night.

    • #48688
      Glenn
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      Lots of oil and cleaning often. ..

      I used a 90 degree muzzle facing tool to square up the breach end and cut the extractor notch with a file.

    • #48689
      Glenn
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      A tee handle and the 22lr finish reamer,  with lots of oil and cleaning often, cut the chamber in just a few minutes.

      Now to mix up some 10110 and glue it in place.

    • #48706
      Glenn
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      I glued the liner in, waited until morning and cut it off.  Then used a 90deg Brownell’s facing tool to cut it back flush with the end of the barrel, then broke the edge of the muzzle with a brass lap and some 600 grit lapping compound.  A little 44/40 cold blue touched up the muzzle.

      Then it was time for a test fire session and it fired and extracted without any problems.

    • #48707
      Goodsteel
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      Very Good!!! Bravo!!!

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