This topic contains 7 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  blackthorn 2 years, 6 months ago.

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  • #34851
     uber7mm 
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    I like Lee six cavity mould handles, they’re nice and big and the price is reasonable. However, the copies I own have a flaw. The wooden handles eventually come off the tapered tangs. Here’s my simple fix. I used sheet rock nails to pin the handles permanently.

    I used sheet rock nails, because they have a relatively large head and thin shaft. The drill bit use was slightly undersized compared to the nail shaft, but not by much. I removed the wooden handles, drilled a hole through, then tapped the handles in place and drilled through the steel tangs.

    To complete the process, I tapped the nails through, cut the point off and bent the remaining nail shaft flush with the wooden handles.
    I did crack the several of wooden handles, so care is advised for this final process.

    No more handles coming off, when pouring molten lead!!!

  • #34853
     Menner 
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    great idea have thought about doing something similar just have not got around to it
    One suggestion, go buy your local radio shack or electrical shop and get some heat shrink to go over those nails as I am sure they will be WARM when things are up to temp
    Good Job
    Tony

  • #34854
     popper 
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    Gorilla glue works too.

  • #34857
     seaboltm 
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    5 minute epoxy works fine as well. Plus no cracked handles.

  • #34859
     Rattlesnake Charlie 
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    I epoxied mine. I also ground some notches into the metal to give the glue a better chance of hanging on.

  • #34860
     Screwbolts 
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    I used red RTV silicon on the offending handles I have, funny how it is usually just one of the two that always slides some.

    Ken H

  • #34864
     Butch Wax 
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    Well I like the idea. Some of my amigos have asked why I have a box of .22LR and .22Mag empties on the little shelf of the side of my bench. Easy, they make great rivets. Uses a 1/4″ hole. Drive em in. Take a sharp chisel and lightly tap the cuts for the rosettes. Then use a blunted punch to start the flair and finish with a concave punch. If one exercises a little patience you have a clean riveting.
    The roofing nail isn’t that far off from a solid shanked rivet, just minus the washer for the set. Thick copper wire like used in house wiring makes good temporary rivets too as copper is best worked cold. Larger diameter you twist em together and hammer tight makeing it bigger.

    Sorry, old school pistolsmith and blacksmith. Hands have gone bad on me but I still think in terms still being capable.

  • #34867
     blackthorn 
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    I have used roll pins, cut just shy of the handle thickness so the ends are just below the outer surface.

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