This topic contains 10 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  lead-1 4 months, 2 weeks ago.

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  • #48422
     redriverhunter 
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    I have been wanting to get a 300 win mag for a long time and it seems that this itch will not go until I get one.  I like the heavy barrels as much as I hate to admit it but I shoot them better. I found the Remington 85508 700 5-R Bolt 300 win mag and it seems like it has what I am looking for heavy barrel at a good price. The rifle will be used for long range target shooting and some hunting not so long range. My only concern is I have heard that Remington has gone down hill. I would like some opinions about this rifle good or bad.

    thanks rrh

     

  • #48464
     Goodsteel 
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    I’m familiar with this rifle.

    Remington has stepped up their game in the last few years to remain competitive with Ruger and Savage, and I give them a double thumbs up. The trigger is safe, but usually atrocious and you first priority should be to add it to your tackle box for the next time you need to make sure metal shit still sinks and replace it with a Jewel.

    I also recommend you tap the receiver holes out to 8-40 threads, use a one peice 20-40MOA pic-rail and a quality scope from Leupold or Vortex. Use steel, fully encapsulating rings by Leupold, Vortex, Badger Ordinence, or Warne.

    Before you shoot it, push 100 dry patches through the barrel.

    I recommend you start with either the Hornady 178 ELD MATCH, or the 180 grain Sierra SMK over a medium charge of H4350. Give it a .010 jump to the lands.

    I have no doubt that you will get sub MOA groups right off the bat. Both the bullets I recommended will make you competitive and lethal to game (yes, with the match bullets. Use the ELD-X if you want to, but it’s not necessary) out to 1000 yards. If you want to shoot past 1000, you will need to step up to the 200+ grain bullets.

    Understand that barrel life is an issue with this caliber (yeah, the 5R doesn’t really help much) so you have 1500 shots at optimum accuracy and then its going to start opening up. Therefore, lean on what you know of reloading, don’t hot dog it, find your sub MOA load and get to work putting them in the air. Don’t burn your barrel looking for a small 100 yard group. Get that rifle pointed at something 400 yards and further and use the performance to do what you bought it to do. That’s the biggest mistake people make with long range guns and I’ve got the T-shirt as well.

    I hope this helps.

  • #48613
     redriverhunter 
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    thank you for the reply rrh

  • #50446
     redriverhunter 
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    I have finally got the rifle purchased, the scope is a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25×50 30 mm. I would like for some advice on a one piece pic-rail and rings. I have used ewg aluminum base and swfa rings https://swfa.com/swfa-ss-tac-30mm-1-rings-6.html. I do not want to purchase sub par stuff nor do i wish to over pay.  I would like some suggestions please.

    goodsteel you recommended to tap the receiver holes out to 8-40 threads, is this something that can be done by running 8-40 tap down the existing hole or does it need to be drilled to open them up thanks rrh

  • #50462
     uber7mm 
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    6-48 NS: #31 drill (.1200″)

    8-40 NS: #28 drill (.1405″)

     

     

     

  • #50488
     Goodsteel 
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    It definitely needs to be predrilled before tapping.

    I reccommend a good quality steel rail, and steel rings. Warne is a great source for both of these.

  • #69149
     MTtimberline 
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    Congratulations on your Remington.  I have always been a fan of the 700.  It appears to me in the current Remington offerings that there are varying levels of quality.  I’m sure that the lower raking models do no receive the same level of craftsmanship to stay competitive at that price point.  I have also recently a new to me lightly used .300 Win Mag in the Remington 700 XCR Tactical.  I cleaned it and there are little signs of use paying extra attention to the bolt, face, and follower areas.  I’m pleased with the feel and fit and finish of this rifle and hope it shoots well.  I just mounted one of my old Weaver T-16 scopes while saving the funds for an appropriate long range scope.  I think the T-16 will be fine for some load development work for awhile.  Good luck on your long range quest with your new 5-R.

  • #69150
     MTtimberline 
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    I did not realize this was an old thread.  I recently came back after taking a little break in my shooting.

  • #69155
     lead-1 
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    Question for Goodsteel, I have read several different ways to do barrel breakin and cleaning methods but may I ask why you suggest pushing 100 dry patches thru the barrel?

  • #69165
     Goodsteel 
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    Lead-1, The biggest thing that needs to be done to “Break in” a barrel is to get the burrs off the throat. If you’re going to shoot them out, you will be depositing copper down your barrel because the bullets got shredded entering the throat. 100 patches takes off the sharpest edges and gets things headed in the right direction.

    It’s better to put some JB bore paste on the patches, or lapping compound if you know how to lap a barrel without ruining it, but even dry patches will have a positive effect.

    The whole “shoot 5 and clean 5 times, then 10 and clean ten times” etc etc etc is basically an attempt to work the copper fowling out while your bullets rip off and smooth out all the burrs, but the patching itself is doing a large part of the work as well.

    My thought is, patches are for working out bore issues, and bullets are for targets. Using expensive bullets and barrel life to fix a rough bore makes zero sense to me, so my method is to push patches till they feel like silk going down the barrel. I use lapping to accelerate this process, but I hesitate to attempt an instructional post on this because you must have a bore scope and it’s possible to jack up several barrels before you get the feel of it. I do this all the time, and I managed to gain the skill without screwing up anything too badly, but the end result is the same: smooth rifling that doesn’t damage the bullet and therefore doesn’t copper up very quickly, and reduces the swings in precision throughout the barrel’s life.

    That’s one of the biggest benefits of a hand lapped barrel: consistent groups throughout the life of the barrel. I don’t personally believe barrel life is extended by lapping or “breaking in” except for the fact that less copper in the barrel will allow you to eek out a few more shots when things are almost toast than the alternative.

    A normal barrel being shot with the exact same load will demonstrate fluctuations in precision. We don’t like to think about this grey area, but it’s a fact and it’s not your shooting. Rifle groups will “float” a little as copper and powder fowling build and purge (or get cleaned). A factory rifle will group .85 to 1.25 MOA (ten shot groups). The precision opens and closes as rounds are sent through it, but the average group will be about 1MOA average across the board. A custom rifle with a lapped throat and bore will typically float from .250-.500MOA as the life of the barrel is expunged. Same thing as the factory barrel but much rounder, and much less variation (of course this is AVERAGE and there are exceptions to each of these statements).

    So obviously, we are looking for the cleanest most consistent barrel we can get. Comparing a factory barrel to a custom barrel, the differences are subtle. Groove diameter is the same, bore diameter is the same, twist rate is the same, chamber specs are the same, throat is the same, contour is the same, harmonics are similar. The only differences are a stress relieved steel that has more consistent harmonics, and how smooth the inside of it is. THAT’S IT. There’s nothing we can do about the stress relieved steel, but the internal finish is well within your ability to effect!!! So, do what you can to make it smoother. The easiest thing is to push a bunch of patches. After every range session, push patches till they come out lily white like they went in with a TIGHT jag. This strops the steel inside the barrel, and over time, you will have a match barrel.

    A friend of Larry Gibson’s taught me this inadvertently because he sent me his Remington model 700 in to be rebarreled. I scope every barrel that comes through the shop, and this one looked like a Krieger inside. There was no bluing left at all, and hardly a tooling mark could be found. Also, the throat was polished beautifully. I looked at the roll mark and it was sure enough a Remington factory barrel. I’d never seen anything like it. I called him up and asked what his cleaning routine was? He told me he simply cleans till patches come out clean. That’s all I needed to hear and that’s why I recommend it.

  • #69168
     lead-1 
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    Great, thanks. I use some sort of bore cleaner be it Hoppe’s or Ed’s Red, then go with a couple dry patches and then a light coat of oil or protectant. I just couldn’t figure out the 100 dry patches but it makes sense, hard to believe cotton wearing on steel. Thanks again.

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