- March 1, 2017 at 3:55 pm #33791
I was recently asked in an email for some tips on preparing powder coated bullets for use in the 45-70 and I thought this was worth posting. I use this exact process for any bullet I am powder coating. It’s just the process I use, and some opinions. Take it for what it’s worth, and I hope it helps:
Powder coated bullets work fine in the 45-70, but you’ve got to pay attention if you want any precision. You’ve got to get your bullets to be round and sized straight, and gas checks are still needed if you want your groups to stay small.
My recommendation is to follow this process:
1. Cast the bullets.
2. Seat the gas checks and lube them lightly with sizing wax
3. Push them through a Lee sizing die
4. Wash them in Dawn dish soap and hot water to remove all traces of the wax, then allow them to dry.
5. Tumble them in a container filled with black airsoft BBs (use the BLACK ones) and use a good quality powder. There are lots of cheap ones out there, and they do not lay on the bullets evenly. The best powder I have used is Kawasaki Green from Powder By the Pound. Nothing coats the bullets as evenly as that stuff.
6. Use forceps and gently grip the bullets by the ogive (the part that does NOT touch the barrel) and set them ever so gently on your oven tray lined with non-stick foil. Trust me, you WANT the Reynolds non-stick foil.
7. Bake them for 15 minutes at 400 degrees. Do not depend on the setting on the oven. Use a thermometer in the oven to tell you what the temperature actually is.
8. Remove them from the oven and allow them to cool, then pile them into a plastic tub.
9. Lube them again with sizing wax. I usually just get the stuff on my hands and kneed the pile of bullets till they all feel slickery.
10. Size them again. Same rules for cast bullets apply. Do not worry about cleaning the sizing wax off this time. Leave the residue on there. It helps.
When the bullets are prepared in exactly this way, they will give very serviceable precision in the 45-70, as good or better than the same bullet shot with traditional lube.
I still want to test this to find out if it puts the cold barrel shot in the group, but I expect it will.
- March 7, 2017 at 5:58 pm #33942nagantguyParticipant
- Posts: 4
- Comments: 19
- Overall: 23
All sound advice;!the only difference in my procedure is that I do not apply the gas Check until the final sizing; just found that works better for me, one reason is the aluminum gas checks tend to really stick to the foil or oven rack, I even powder coated my oven rack and the aluminum cgs just stick, the copper ones not as bad and the naked boolit base not much at all!
- March 7, 2017 at 6:08 pm #33943
nagantguy;n14794 wrote: All sound advice;!the only difference in my procedure is that I do not apply the gas Check until the final sizing; just found that works better for me, one reason is the aluminum gas checks tend to really stick to the foil or oven rack, I even powder coated my oven rack and the aluminum cgs just stick, the copper ones not as bad and the naked boolit base not much at all!
Last part of step six above:
Have you tried the Rienolds NON STICK FOIL? You would not have these issues if you do that.
- March 7, 2017 at 8:40 pm #33946nagantguyParticipant
- Posts: 4
- Comments: 19
- Overall: 23
That’s the foil I have , I think the problem I’m having is the coating on the aluminum I’m making checks with. Just to be clear I wasn’t saying my way was better or you were wrong or anything of the sort. Just paralleling how your and my methods kind of played out similar through trial and error. Haven’t gcd any 45-70 yet but have done lots of heavy 44 and 444 marlin, wish the skinny 30 cals were as easy to stand up and not fall over! I do totally agree with the black airsoft bbs, when I first went down the pc road I got some deep purple color ones with swirls almost looked like cats eye marbles and they worked well to but black seems to be best! One more question; have you tried shake and bake using a capped piece of pvc pipe yet? Been reading about a lot of good results and seemed to work well for me I just have to get larger diameter pipe to do more than a handful at a time.
- March 7, 2017 at 9:08 pm #33948popperParticipant
- Posts: 1
- Comments: 293
- Overall: 294
to simplify a bit.
1) cast & inspect.
2) size using H2O as lube. Like every 3rd wiped with damp fingers. Keeps the die unleaded.
3) I ESPC but tumbling does work.
4) GC or PB, pick up with hemos (or whatever), rub the base litley on a paper towel to REMOVE PC from the base. You cant guarantee a flat base if it has PC on it.
5) place on glossy ceramic tile which is on top of your hot plate. You may need 2 or 3 tiles if an open coil plate.
6) cook as required – note – they will reach temp quicker than in an oven.
7) resize for best performance.
8) If AC, they will be the normal alloy hardness. If WD, pick them at your leisure and drop in ice water (NOT the tile). Takes me 5 min cook for a load AC, I cook for 1/2 hr when WD.
My tiles are ~6″ square, ~80 30cal rifle on the easily, no dominoes or bending over to place in dark (hot) oven. My PID controlled convection oven has been on the shelf for a year. If you are sneaky you can trade off loaded tiles to increase volume. Same hot plate I use to preheat the mould. I cook in the garage, may want to make a sheet metal cover for the mess if doing this outside or in the cold. Clean the tile with razor blade or acetone. I don’t bother with the NSAF or parchment paper. If you try using metal plate, the boolits will melt. My 1200W China closed coil unit won’t using the tile.
- March 7, 2017 at 10:46 pm #33950
I apologize! I’m shocked anything sticks to that stuff! I can literally push the cured bullets around on the foil covered plate I put in the oven. That’s a head scratcher for sure.
- February 14, 2018 at 2:25 am #49123GrmpsParticipant
- Posts: 2
- Comments: 20
- Overall: 22
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.