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    • #31074
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      I’ve been to the big Reno Show about 3 times and much after the fact it occurs to me that , that N frame , probably a 1917 but maybe a 1937, with the stuck bullet burst bbl has been there each time . It features a sign that says ” needs new barrel” . I’m wondering now with the winter show coming if maybe it might really just need a new bbl .
      it is the skinny thin GI bbl . It’s got to be 45 ACP ok Colts maybe and even if it were reamed for Schofield and got a Rowland or a WM in it the Colts length chamber would have bled it off enough maybe/probably . (Clearly I have too much time on my hands and not enough focus time)
      So if it could be bought for a song and it’s post 1925 ( heat treatment date ) then it might be a real steal , no?

    • #31078
      skeettx
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      NO, by the time you take off the old barrel, and buy a different barrel and install the barrel and then fit the barrel
      and then find out the cylinder is messed up, you could have bought a used N frame with no issues
      Mike

    • #31082
      Goodsteel
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      Forget the barrel. Check the cylinder carefully. If the cylinder is in good shape and is tight, then you could easily screw a new pipe in front of it if you have a small hobby lathe and some patience. If you don’t have the lathe, then forget it. You’ll pay more than the gun is worth getting that work done by a professional……..unless you find a spare barrel laying on another table nearby for reasonable money.
      If it’s a Smiff you’ve got a narrow chance of success. If it’s a Colt, your chances of getting a good deal on both the gun and the barrel is pretty slim.
      Theres other things you can do, but it all involves extensive use of a lathe when you’re not paying a guy an hourly wage to run it.
      Not a whole lot of options here.

    • #31085
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      Just 1 of those things that rattle around in the empty space upstairs. It probably won’t be there this go around anyway ……

    • #31391
      Sgt. Mike
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      Bought a S&W 64 that the barrel was gone (as in missing), little over two years ago. I did what you are posing found a used barrel dirt cheap (ebay) screwed it in, indexed perfectly with the correct gap across each cylinder. I was extremely lucky.

      But I paid only enough that if it did not work out I could have parted the frame cylinder hammer and trigger for a good bit more than I paid. (my intended purpose was to have a PPC gun built so I knew it would require a lot, but the project went awry from my original intent)
      Unless the dealer is willing to part with it for $50.00 or less I would keep going.

      Can the job be done without a lathe yes but requires some speciality tools and a extremely steady hand as the face (barrel) would need to be cut and the forcing cone re-established provided that the barrel is touching or extremely close ( less than .004 inch) to the cylinder or to the point of binding (the target gap barrel – cylinder should be .005 to .010 inch, tighter will bind in repeated firing, looser will result in velocity loss and top strap cutting). Otherwise (excessive gap) yes lathe time then again the speciality hand tools come into play to establish cylinder barrel gap then cut the forcing cone would require a special cutter as well as a plug gage to ensure that you did not go too deep. Another issue not discussed is lock-up and timing. Like I said it would have to be at a give away price for me to mess with it.

      Mike (Skeetx) gave the best advice find a working N frame you will be money ahead the cost of the tooling for you to do it is kind of expensive. Barrels are not a big issue, tooling and time is.

      But yes the 1917 and the 1937 are a 45 ACP in the S&W

      oh BTW another tool that I did not address was a frame wrench with inserts to keep from bending the frame while loosening and tightening the barrel

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