This topic contains 8 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Jniedbalski 1 month, 3 weeks ago.

  • Author
    Posts
  • #69377
     Glenn 
    Participant
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 43
    • Comments: 218
    • Overall: 261

    I just finished up a new knife for a buddy.  The blade started from a stick of 80crv2.  I did all the heat treating.  The handles are from a stick of Claro Walnut that I had laying around, and finished with boiled linseed oil.  It’s not too much to look at, but I hope that it will be functional.

  • #69383
     Jniedbalski 
    Participant
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 23
    • Comments: 196
    • Overall: 219

    I like it. Did you make or buy the rivets I thank that’s what there called. Looks like a perfect hunting style knife. The one I have used for over 30 years looks almost like that knife

  • #69384
     Glenn 
    Participant
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 43
    • Comments: 218
    • Overall: 261

    I bought the pins for the handles from a knife supply house.

  • #69386
     Jniedbalski 
    Participant
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 23
    • Comments: 196
    • Overall: 219

    do you use pre made or shaped blades or do you grind your own blank. I wondering how you do the heat treatment. Thanks 

  • #69387
     Jniedbalski 
    Participant
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 23
    • Comments: 196
    • Overall: 219

    <p style=”text-align: center;”>Really wondering how you shape the blank. The shape looks perfect, so if you started with a chuck of steel very good job</p>

  • #69388
     Glenn 
    Participant
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 43
    • Comments: 218
    • Overall: 261

    I started with a stick of 80CRV2.  He had a knife that he wanted copied, so I tried to keep it about the same.  I traced the outline on the steel and cut off as much as I could with  sawsall.  Then to the bench grinder to rough in as much as possible. Next was a 4×36″ belt sander with 40 grit ceramic belt to get the handle and blade shaped.  Next was to drill the holes for the handle pins.  I started getting the bevels ground on the belt sander, don’t go too thin at first.  The spot at the front of the handle was done with a chainsaw file.

    The wife bought me a propane fired forge, so that’s what I used to heat treat it.  Heat the steel until it goes orange, or just past it’s non-magnetic point, then take it out and let it cool in the air.  Do this 3x to stress relieve the steel.  When you heat steel enough to change it’s internal crystallin structure, it will loose it’s magnetic properties. This happens somewhere around orange, 1500-1600F I think, you check it with a magnet because my orange may be different than your orange.  At this point the steel structure is called Austenite.  After it’s non magnetic, put it back in the forge for a little bit more to ensure its hot enough, then pull it out and go straight into a bucket of pre heated oil to quench it moving it up and down, back and forth, but never side to side or it can warp.  Keep it in the oil until it stops smoking.  At this point the blade will be glass hard and fragile.  Smack it on the anvil and it can shatter like glass.

    Next is tempering, put your blade into a pre heated toaster oven at 400F for about an hour, take it out and let it air cool.  It should be slightly flexible now, so it needs one more trip through the toaster oven for another hour.

  • #69389
     Glenn 
    Participant
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 43
    • Comments: 218
    • Overall: 261

    Now it will be hard and flexible and ready to finish.

    When I heat treat, I put one of the scraps that I cut off into the forge and treat it the same as the blade.  After it’s quenched the steel’s structure is called Martensite.  It’s very hard and fragile and has a very small grain structure.  It’s now that I take the scrap piece, put it in the vise and break it.  It should leave a sharp clean edge and the inside will look frosted.  This tells you that the heat and quench worked.  Put the scrap piece into the toaster oven with the blade to temper it.  Tempering will round off the corners of the Martensite crystal structure and give the steel some flexibility, while still maintaining most of the hardness.  After the first hour, take both pieces out and try to break the scrap piece again.  It will flex quite Abit, but will probably break.  Put it back in for another hour and repeat, this time it shouldn’t break.  Now you have “tempered Martensite”

    Now it’s back to the belt sander to finish grinding the bevels and clean off the scale.  Go slow and don’t over heat the steel, dip in water often.  I now switch to finer belts, ending in 600 grit, then sometimes the buffer.

    Epoxy the handles and pins on, sharpen and it’s ready.

    Anybody else feel free to jump in if I forgot something important.

  • #69395
     Jniedbalski 
    Participant
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 23
    • Comments: 196
    • Overall: 219

    That is awesome. Looks like a lot of work. But making something from scratch is very fun a labor of love.

  • #69396
     Jniedbalski 
    Participant
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 23
    • Comments: 196
    • Overall: 219

    Thanks for the info appreciate it a lot

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

© 2017 Goodsteel Forum. Designed by Covalent Designs, LLC.