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    • #29012
      Goodsteel
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      Seems the Lee pellets come out looking a little “Butchered” once the pellets are cut apart.
      I’ve got a ten gauge to feed, and I’m wondering if I should buy the 000 mold, or just buy the nickel plated stuff from BPI.
      I think I want to buy the uber sweet round stuff first, but I figured I’d ask if the Lee is really worth the frustration?

      Thoughts?

    • #29016
      Rattlesnake Charlie
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      I’ve read that you can clean-um-up with a trip through a rotary tumbler. I don’t have the Lee, but every size that Sharp Shooter Buckshot mold makes. With the clipper he supplies, they are quite close to round. If you wish to try some, I’ll loan you the mold. The clippers? Yes, IF I can find them.

    • #29021
      Goodsteel
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      Just curious how they shoot RC.
      I might take you up on borrowing that mold. Probably wait a while though. Once I get the machinery set up in the new place it’s going to be balls to the walls for quite some time.

    • #29023
      GhostHawk
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      Another vote for the sharp shooter molds here.
      I only have 2 but wish I had more.

      The 2 I have are .30 caliber and .22 and yes the .22 will work in my pump up airguns at need. Not quite as accurate as a good pellet but certainly minute of squirrel head.

      I did remove the factory handles on mine and put longer slightly thinner ones on. Then hit them with a rasp to round the outside corners where your hand goes.

    • #29024
      Harter
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      I have a Lee 18 00B mould . The sprue balls have a tangical cut off with a big flat . I use a cat toenail clipper to separate them . Mostly over used them to make flat balls for 38/357 and 445 Colts multi ball shells .

      I haven’t loaded any for shot shells yet . Based on lots of shot testing, none of which I wrote down ,and lots of high rent reading that presents reasonably accurate accounts of shot behavior and comparitive shooting of factory loads of 4B and 00B. I believe that loads of just the bottom OR just middle balls will deliver the best and most consistent loads . Buffer in the shot charge should improve your best paterns but loads must be worked up with buffer in the shot charge . It is also my belief that the top/sprue balls will make for poor patterns . My mechanic says that the balls won’t fly well due to the large flats and cause wild flyers as a result of non uniform deformation and the aborrant ,comparitively, large dish/divot/lopsided balls .

      Harder shot makes tighter more uniform patterns . So a fixed choke shoot steel tighter farther than nickle ,copper, super hard ,chilled and trap grades of shot in that order , because the harder shot resists deformation better at launch. Steel has a whole set of phyisics that go with it .

      DO NOT SUBSTITUTE ANY PRIMER OR CASE IN ANY WORKED UP LOAD ! While it can be embarrassing to have shot just make the 40 yd line before bouncing in the grass I’ve looked at lots of load data that demonstrates 10,000 psi jumps with a change from a W209 to a 209A (FC standard shotgun primer now) and loads that produced 14,900 psi in a Winchester white base Dry-Lock case were only making 9,900 psi in a FiochI case . Also brass hight has nothing to do with case capacity or vaguely suitablity .
      FC plastic base wad cases ,particularly those from game loads are laminated hulls and are know to have tube shoot offs . A 3″ 12ga 1 1/4 semi-frangable wad cutter has a use but it’s not a lot of fun when it’s unexpected and splashes down in the next county (4-600 yd from the blind) .

      General info from developing from good known data game loads in 2.75 and 3″ 12ga loads exceeding 1500 fps with 2,1,B and BB and keeping in the case of B 108 of 115 pellets inside of 27″ at 40 yd 100% .

    • #29027
      Goodsteel
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      I’m only using new Federal plastic hulls. I am aware of the danger of changing primers and of adding buffer to the payload.
      Your comment about the shot getting deformed and needing to be hard in order to keep decent patterns is why I was asking. I wonder if clipping the sprues would leave flat spots and open groups.

    • #29028
      Screwbolts
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      I have the HM2 00 mold so no experience with the LEE. I run my alloy and mold VERY hot and fast so the balls simply break apart when the hit the towel any strings still together come apart with a simple roll from the sprue pusher. once I figured out the real hot cast with the buckshot mold, piles of balls add up real fast. I think hot and fast would work well with the LEE mold also.

      For a simple cleaning up, try using a large plastic PB jar, empty of peanut butter of coarse. Add 2 inches or so of balls and start shaking the Jar, once they look decent, dump and reload the jar.

      In 12 ga. my son and I worked up a real fast buffered 8 pellet load over 800x that will keep all 8 balls inside 15″ at 50 yards. Real coyote medicine. The load is out of an old shot shell loading book.

      Ken

    • #29045
      Rattlesnake Charlie
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      I’ve shot some single-ought loads in shotcups that equaled factory stuff with the exception of Federal Premium. I did not clean them up any. I cast them, then clipped them apart, and loaded them.

      I have some of the nickle plated buckshot from BPI, but have not yet loaded it. If I get to load some soon, I’ll do a comparison with my home cast and post the results here.

      A lot of factory buckshot uses soft alloy, and thus doesn’t patter very well. I want to try casting some with COWW and some lino threw in. Trying to find the magic buckshot load is a never ending quest. Especially when every shotgun is different.

    • #29046
      Goodsteel
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      I would appreciate reading your comparison RC.
      I was thinking of casting with House alloy, and water dropping them. That will produce 27BHN pellets. Hard to see how it gets much harder than that. I figure if those bullets are good for 2700FPS, then theyll work for a shotgun. Also, my 10 gauge has no choke, so that should help some with speed.

    • #29049
      Rattlesnake Charlie
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      They might be really hard to snip apart.

    • #29050
      Goodsteel
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      Perhaps heat treating is in order.

    • #29058
      JPHolla
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      I used to make my own lead shot and I found that the roundness of the shot had very little to do with patterns. What matters is how it gets deformed upon firing. Buffered with COW, I see no need for anything harder than ACWW. Even un-buffered, you probably wouldn’t be too disappointed–depending on how far you plan to shoot.

    • #29060
      Goodsteel
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      I’m only planning to shoot about 20-30 yards.
      I want to work up loads with both 000 and #4 buck. I think I’m going to want to stay with #4, but if 000 gives me good results, I’ll be glad to stick with it.
      as long as either of them patern like these vintage, Remington #2 shells, I’ll be happy.
      From my cylinder bore shotgun I get about a 2 foot pattern at the above specified range. Still dense enough to turn a clay pigeon into a black mushroom cloud, or totally obliterate stuff on the ground.
      In a perfect world, I would be happy duplicating this performance exactly with the same shot, but the rules have changed since these shells were made. The smallest shot allowed for shooting deer in Arkansas is #4 Buck, and you can’t wing shoot with lead anymore (libtard treehuggers won that one) so lead #2 loads are good for nothing but self defense and varmints.

    • #29062
      Rattlesnake Charlie
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      Lead #2 for varmints. Yep. Regardless of the number of legs they have. Proven to work well on coyote.

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