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    • #26014
      Goodsteel
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      A very special client of mine called me months ago and described a dream he has of the ultimate do it all rifle. This gentleman has been shooting for a very long time, and is wise, so I listened intently as he described a rifle that the very thought of, really gave me pause.

      His plan was a simple one:
      Buy a Ruger 77/357
      Have Krieger duplicate the barrel exactly.
      Build the rifle with the original stock, but modify it to use the awesome sights found on the M1A battle rifle (this fellow was batting 100 all the way!)
      Install a Timney trigger.

      This build seemed as simple as it was elegant, and I was completely taken with the idea and agreed to build this fine rifle. The barrel was ordered as well as a new reamer, and the waiting began.

      At this point I have received all the parts and I have begun to fit everything together with all the attention to precision that I bring to an MBT cast bullet rifle.
      First the barrel was fitted and the balance was observed. I find that a rifle is perfect when it balances right under the receiver ring, or just in front of it, and this rifle was too far forward (not surprising, as I ordered a 27″ barrel just so that I could find that sweet spot.)

      I observed that the rifle would swing best and balance correctly if I cut the barrel to 22″. After doing so, I found that I was absolutely correct.

      The next step is the fun part, and is the one detail of this build that has been on my mind since this project was proposed: How to hold the M1A upside down dovetail front sight?
      Let me show you how I accomplished this:

      Fist I selected a large piece of 416SS I keep in stock here, and began to form it in the lathe.

      Next, I moved to the milling machine and used a few tricks I know to “bring the insides to the outsides”

      Hmmmmmmm!!!!!! starting to look like a gun part eh?

      Now I cut the dovetail

      And it’s a good fit.

      I milled the ramp into the sight base, and moved back to the lathe to cut it off.

      Very nice place to start the hand work:

      At this point the sight is draw filed and the ramp is checkered. After this step is the sanding and polishing to make it look clean and sharp.

      There’s still a lot to do, but I thought you guys might like to see how I handle making a banded front sight.

    • #26015
      Dick
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      I like that sight style vary much. Looks easy to see and robust. For the sight band, do you solder it in place?

    • #26019
      Reg
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      Nicest set of photos on how to make a front sight ramp I have ever seen. If a guy was to really get into this ramp making business wonder how it would work out to go ahead and flat mill to remove excess stock but have the gripping shank about 2 inches long and switch to a rotary table with a centered chuck and go vertical on the cutter and side mill the outer radius. You couldn’t get all the way because of the radius of the cutter but you could get about 90 percent of it. Would save a lot of hand filing.
      Just a thought, but great pics for sure !!!!!!

    • #26024
      Goodsteel
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      Reg;n4483 wrote: Nicest set of photos on how to make a front sight ramp I have ever seen. If a guy was to really get into this ramp making business wonder how it would work out to go ahead and flat mill to remove excess stock but have the gripping shank about 2 inches long and switch to a rotary table with a centered chuck and go vertical on the cutter and side mill the outer radius. You couldn’t get all the way because of the radius of the cutter but you could get about 90 percent of it. Would save a lot of hand filing.
      Just a thought, but great pics for sure !!!!!!

      There was actually minimal hand filing required in relation to what you suggest, and the hardest part is getting that nice clean corner in the rib, which my method takes care of right off the bat.
      Here’s another banded front sight for a little side project I’m doing for myself that you will see posted in the future. I used the same method. You’ll pardon, it’s still in the white. Later, I will install a Lyman #17, it will all be polished to a mirror shine and blued in the hot tanks.
      Notice the radius transition of the band to the rib. This also is impossible if it is fabricated by side milling. Also, notice that I have the freedom to make the ramp as long as I want to.
      There’s a good reason I handle these jobs this way.

    • #26025
      Goodsteel
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      Dick;n4479 wrote: I like that sight style vary much. Looks easy to see and robust. For the sight band, do you solder it in place?

      The band will be drilled and tapped under the dovetail portion, a divot will be drilled in the top of the barrel, it will be set in place with a set screw through that hole and soldered in place. My client could throw the rifle in a hole, jump in after it, and come up making good hits if the situation called for it.
      LOL!

    • #26027
      uber7mm
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      Wow Tim,

      Those are beautiful front ramps. Works of art. Thanks for sharing the process with us.

      Charlie

    • #26048
      Reg
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      I see what you mean on the side milling, hadn’t thought of that one. Very nice work.
      Have made up several of these of various sizes and even though they take extra work it is the little things and attention to detail that can take a middle of the road rifle and make it outstanding.
      I have noticed on some of the older ramps out of the 30’s and 40’s that the checkering to break the glare on the top angle of the ramp runs lengthwise which in the case of the ramp being straight wouldn’t be hard to do especially if one was using a small bench shaper except I have a older Pacific I think it is in the collection somewhere that the ramp is actually with a increasing radius and grooved. Now how in the heck did they do that one ?? !!
      Another question that confounds my simple mind. Top rib of side by side doubles , there again , on the older guns is grooved full length but also tapered so as to maintain the same sight picture. I know the skill has not been lost but the couple of expert “doers” that I have asked only will grin at you .
      Might be one of those questions one takes to their grave I guess.
      Again, nice work Sir and don’t think I am not learning by the watching !!!! Keep the pictures of the projects coming !!!!!!

    • #26053
      Goodsteel
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      Reg;n4519 wrote: I see what you mean on the side milling, hadn’t thought of that one. Very nice work.
      Have made up several of these of various sizes and even though they take extra work it is the little things and attention to detail that can take a middle of the road rifle and make it outstanding.
      I have noticed on some of the older ramps out of the 30’s and 40’s that the checkering to break the glare on the top angle of the ramp runs lengthwise which in the case of the ramp being straight wouldn’t be hard to do especially if one was using a small bench shaper except I have a older Pacific I think it is in the collection somewhere that the ramp is actually with a increasing radius and grooved. Now how in the heck did they do that one ?? !!
      Another question that confounds my simple mind. Top rib of side by side doubles , there again , on the older guns is grooved full length but also tapered so as to maintain the same sight picture. I know the skill has not been lost but the couple of expert “doers” that I have asked only will grin at you .
      Might be one of those questions one takes to their grave I guess.
      Again, nice work Sir and don’t think I am not learning by the watching !!!! Keep the pictures of the projects coming !!!!!!

      :rolleyes:
      LOL!

      How about a little quarter rib action? (Again, still in the white. Bear with me)

    • #26054
      Goodsteel
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      I’ll tell you what I have been puzzling over is the old Marlin waffle top. I’m going to find a way to do that by hand someday and then I will be whole.

      The tapering rib cuts are easily done if you make a pull graver with an adjustable stop that bears on the side of the rib. You set the stop, then it’s a matter of twisting it the correct amount as you scrape the groove into the rib in order to make the cuts flare out at the same rate that the rib does. Takes a little feel, and I’ve never done it, but I do believe that’s how it was accomplished.

    • #26060
      Reg
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      I think you might be on to something with the pull graver. Will put it in my notes and give it a try. The Marlin waffle cut— I think witchcraft is involved.

    • #26061
      Goodsteel
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      Reg;n4534 wrote: I think you might be on to something with the pull graver. Will put it in my notes and give it a try. The Marlin waffle cut— I think witchcraft is involved.

      Know any good witches? I need to make them an offer. LOL!

    • #26066
      Reg
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      Been lookin for years, closest I ever found was a talking dog !!!

      😉

    • #26395
      goody
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      this is better than buying books! I appreciate talent when I see it. Nicely done. Question I have on these 357 rugers, is it possible to load longer COL bullets or are you stuck to mag length with out redoing it?

    • #26416
      Goodsteel
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      goody;n4957 wrote: this is better than buying books! I appreciate talent when I see it. Nicely done. Question I have on these 357 rugers, is it possible to load longer COL bullets or are you stuck to mag length with out redoing it?

      That’s the whole idea here Goody. I’m out to make an internet forum that quits screwing around and takes full advantage of this method of conveying information, and make a forum where people can get the real deal. I’m trying aweful hard to keep the BS to a minumum and encourage solid juicy information. What would an internet forum be like if that happens?

      Concerning the magazine:
      You’re pretty much stuck with the mag length, but there are a few tricks you can utilize with this cartridge. I have loaded heavy 200s in 38 special since I was pulling the handle on a rockchucker. Revolvers have the same problem in a different way with cylinder length. If the truck won’t go under the bridge, let the air out of the tires. LOL!

      Good news is I’ve got this baby feeding now. She eats 357 Mag with 158 SWC like pouring water through a funnel, and that’s what my client said he wanted to run predominately. I’ve got the T-36 scope mounted up and she looks bad to the bone. I’ll be testing her for accuracy using some of Sgt.Mike’s swaged bullets. If she shoots as good as she looks, I’m in for a real treat.
      Timney trigger is en-rout.

    • #26418
      chutesnreloads
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      I am awed.Really wish I could see the iron sights the way I used to.Most rifles can be scoped.There’s times,mostly in direct sunlight aiming into shadows,I wished my handguns all had hoods over both sights but may make unholstering difficult

    • #26430
      uber7mm
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      Tim any new photos? Please advise.

    • #26454
      Goodsteel
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      All I’ve got is a picture of the 77/357 on my old boat motor. Thought it might be a photo op, but it was a photo flop. LOL! I’ll take photos at the range and post them.

      Now, I’ve worked till midnight on something on another project that I am going to be VERY proud to share, but I can’t yet because it is not finished. Lot’s of careful work goes on behind these pictures.

    • #26462
      Reg
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      OK now !! You showed the photos of the quarter rib. How do you do it and make it fit up so nice ?????
      😉

    • #26472
      Goodsteel
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      Reg;n5043 wrote: OK now !! You showed the photos of the quarter rib. How do you do it and make it fit up so nice ?????
      😉

      Sorry Reg, cant give away all my tricks! 😉

    • #26502
      seaboltm
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      Tim made a custom rear sight island for one of my rifles. It looks like it grew on the rifle. In fact, I sent it back to Tim for bluing and a couple of other issues. Can go wrong with MBT for any of your projects.

    • #26505
      Reg
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      Ah, come on now. If it would help I might mention the wife makes the best brownies the world has ever known !!!!!

    • #26548
      PB234
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      Interested to see the targets with the scope and if you get a chance a few rounds with the irons.

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