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    • #31610
      kens
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      How do you modify the magazine of a 95/98 Mauser to feed smaller cart. like 7.62×39, 35Rem. etc.?
      There is plenty of talk about bolt faces and extracting/ejecting, but there is little out there on the mag follower and feed ramp.
      What is the trick to make one feed out of the magazine, to get the positive claw feeding?

      I tried a M98 in 7.62×39 and could not get it to feed, I looked at the inside dimensions of feed rails (receiver rails) of SKS and M98, they were the same. So why does a SKS feed a small case and the mauser not?

    • #31611
      Harter
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      Numrich sells a short action kit .
      It includes a follower and new spring 2.25″ long and includes a spacer slightly over size to be fitted .
      The kit is specifically marketed for conversions to x39 , Savages , 22-250 etc .
      The block is a nylon/mylar super slick soft polymer like certain high rent cutting boards . For a 308 based cartridge like a 45 Raptor at 2.3″ it has about .1 between the block and the follower . Being a full straight wall cartridge I opted to use the block as a feed ramp extension to allow the .300 plus flats of assorted pistol bullets beat the .284 spitzer/RN fmj feed ramp the block also needed to be at a shallow angle to get the 308 rims under slightly shallower 7×57 extractor .

      A mica block was used in the past like in a Mark X 22-250 .

      Based on the spring length and shape the of it the kit is set up for the block at the rear of the mag well rather than the front.

    • #31613
      Goodsteel
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      I found this out the hard way, and ruined a rifle in the process, so please hear me:
      leave the feed ramp alone. It’s right there, and so tempting, but it has nothing to do with it.
      same goes for the feed rails. Forget it! thats a quick way to kill a rifle.
      Feeding is all about trigonometry. the column stack is what determines the feeding.
      You need to modify the magazine box in order to get it right. Slim the box down in the front and the back. If the nose of your cartridge crashes into the front of the mag box, tighten the front and loosten the rear.
      If the nose jumps clean past the chamber and jamms between the receiver avd the barrel face under the scope mount, then open up the front a little and squeeze the rear.
      It doesn’t always work, but sometimes you can fudge it that last little bit by squeezing the mag box into an hourglass shape.
      Alls fair I’m love, war, and magazine box dimensions, as long as it works.

      Abother tip:
      Use short, round nose bullets in your dummy rounds. If it feeds those, it will feed anything (unless we’re talking about WFN cast bullets.

      Also, never underestimate the importance of having the right follower. Borrow from several different rifles, use a grinder to remove, and Quiksteel putty to add, till you find the perfect shape. Remember that the follower sets the tone for how the cartridges stack in the column, and it makes sure that last round thinks there’s a cartridge under it so it feeds like it’s predecessors.

    • #31632
      popper
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      leave the feed ramp alone Agree, the angle is correct. I’ve had to change the mag lips on several autoloaders to feed properly. Width, length, etc. I messed with the follower for BO as I was getting nose drop – added a few thou. – then got nose high jams. Also makes a difference if you run the bolt

    • #31633
      Goodsteel
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      popper;n11844 wrote: leave the feed ramp alone Agree, the angle is correct. I’ve had to change the mag lips on several autoloaders to feed properly. Width, length, etc. I messed with the follower for BO as I was getting nose drop – added a few thou. – then got nose high jams. Also makes a difference if you run the bolt

      I agree with you if the discussion was aimed at magazine fed firearms. In that situation, the magazine lips are all you have to work with and you’re generally working with short, fat, stubby little cartridges that really don’t have much of anywhere to go in the first place.
      Doing long, sleek, rifle cartridges is much more of a gentleman’s challenge.

    • #31647
      kens
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      Goodsteel;n11845 wrote:

      I agree with you if the discussion was aimed at magazine fed firearms. In that situation, the magazine lips are all you have to work with and you’re generally working with short, fat, stubby little cartridges that really don’t have much of anywhere to go in the first place.
      Doing long, sleek, rifle cartridges is much more of a gentleman’s challenge.

      They all are magazine fed !!
      The mauser magazine lips is the inner receiver rails that the bolt lugs ride on !! Mag lips nonetheless.
      this is the info I was looking for, thanks. It makes sense to me now. the standing bevel on the follower is inline with the bore & feed ramp, and the trick is to squeeze the skinny cartridges (7.62×39 or 35rem) to lay nicely on that bevel such as a 7×57 would lay.

      ……..’Squeeze the skinny cartridges with shims inside the mag box walls.’ is this the trick?

    • #31659
      Goodsteel
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      kens;n11859 wrote:

      They all are magazine fed !!

      Very true, but modifying the width of a detachable magazine impedes function.
      Not so with the fixed internal box magazine.

      The detachable magazine often has thin sheet metal lips that can be bent inward, or outward at will.
      The fixed internal magazine has milled lips that cannot be bent easily.

      Fact:
      You adjust a detachable magazine by manipulating the feed lips and follower.
      You adjust a fixed internal box magazine by modifying the angle and width of the box, and the follower while leaving the feed lips alone (unless there is no alternative, such as the cartridge will literally not fit between the rails).

      Not that there is never a time to go after the feed lips on a fixed internal box magazine rifle, but it’s usually confined to a situation where you are modifying the rifle to accept a LARGER cartridge.

      Thats all im trying to say.

      Shims are an effective way to see where you need to go, but they have a real tendency to turn loose. Pretty harsh environment in there.
      Once you’re sure where you are going, and how much you need to remove, files and a brazing torch are invaluable and inexpensive.
      A TIG torch is better.

    • #31801
      uber7mm
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      While we’re on this subject, is there any specifications or known measurements for a 98 Mauser magazine to be converted to a 308 Win case?
      The 308s are wider at the shoulder than the 8x57JS case is at the same point when compared side by side.
      Does the bottom of the receiver’s rails need to be milled, or just the box side widened to account for the 308’s shoulder? Please advise.

    • #31808
      kens
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      Dont do anything to the rails, they are fine.
      If anything just add a filler block in the back end of the mag box to keep the rounds more forward near the feed ramp.
      I got a M98 in 308 and it runs OK with no modification at all.

    • #31816
      Goodsteel
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      uber7mm;n12051 wrote: While we’re on this subject, is there any specifications or known measurements for a 98 Mauser magazine to be converted to a 308 Win case?
      The 308s are wider at the shoulder than the 8x57JS case is at the same point when compared side by side.
      Does the bottom of the receiver’s rails need to be milled, or just the box side widened to account for the 308’s shoulder? Please advise.

      I agree with kens. I’ve had very little trouble converting mausers to 308, although it’s an inferior cartridge and doesn’t feed nearly as smoothly as the original, and very occasionally, has difficulty that requires magazine box modification. That’s the exception rather than the rule though.

    • #31852
      uber7mm
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      I stand in agreement with you on the 8×57 JS cartridge.

    • #31897
      lar45
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      I have a Mauser 98 in 308 win that has a standard magazine box and have had no problems with it.

    • #31942
      kens
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      I have a Chilean M95 and tried to run some 35Rem through it, just to see if they go up the feed ramp. It is a 7mm chamber, but Im only wanting to see if they go up the feed ramp.
      they didn’t. I swapped extractor & follower with a Swede, and they now want to go up the ramp. I can’t tell anything more with this 7mm chamber.
      Even tho the swapped parts were both of small ring model, swapping them did make a big difference.
      And no modifications as yet.

    • #31953
      Goodsteel
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      kens;n12248 wrote: I have a Chilean M95 and tried to run some 35Rem through it, just to see if they go up the feed ramp. It is a 7mm chamber, but Im only wanting to see if they go up the feed ramp.
      they didn’t. I swapped extractor & follower with a Swede, and they now want to go up the ramp. I can’t tell anything more with this 7mm chamber.
      Even tho the swapped parts were both of small ring model, swapping them did make a big difference.
      And no modifications as yet.

      Did you try multiple cartridges, or just one. If only one, all you know is that the last round will feed.
      Remove the extractor to see if a full column will work as well.

    • #32515
      kens
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      Yes, I tried multiple cartridges, and no luck.
      I bought a couple brand new Swede extractors, and installed one, it seemed of little help, the old 7mm extractor was noticeably weak.

      However, I think I found the nirvana encounter.
      I used metal foil tape and applied 2 layers to the follower.
      Now when I attempt to feed 35rem into the original 7mm gun, they get the noses stuck in the chamber, and when I extract them they fling across the room, and the next one repeats.
      Now it wants to truly feed. these are the round nose 35rem, and as much as I been fiddling with them they are now battered nose.

    • #32601
      kens
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      I am asking for help on this. I got a new ’96 tight extractor, and added thickness to the follower. It is better but not right.
      Feeding it slowly, and watching from the breech end, I see the rounds noses getting pushed too far to the sides by the ramp. The noses crash into the sides of the barrel butt face, both left & right side of column stack.
      The last round does feed, as it rides over the ramp and goes straight in.
      I tried some 7mm ball ammo, and it also rides over the ramp on last round.
      The 7mm ammo pointed nose actually rides over the ramp, and the ramp serves to push on the 7mm neck.

      I am tempted to grind a upside down heart shape to the ramp, to feed this .35rem round nose ammo. I read where you guys say leave the ramp alone, but, when working this slowly, I see the ramp pushing the noses too far too quickly to the sides.
      What should I do?

    • #32603
      Goodsteel
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      It’s not the ramp. It’s the feed rails and how much purchase they have on the cartridges. They are holding on too long. The box can be bent and collapsed, expanded, or shimmed. That’s where your problem lies. Leave the ramp alone. You can grind on it till doomsday and it will do nothing but make your rifle unsafe.
      Your box determines the angle of your column stack, and that determines the angle the cartridges strip from the magazine. If it were me, I would change the angle of the box so that the rear is smaller and the front is wider.
      Just because you have a hammer does not mean the problem is a nail.

    • #32606
      Larry Gibson
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      Goodsteel is correct as usual, it’s the feed rails that need altering not the ramp. With a cartridge (dummy) in the magazine all the way to the rear the rails need to be tapered just in front of the cartridge shoulder to begin to let the case come out from under the rail as the cartridge is pushed forward by the bolt. The bullet nose should be up on the ramp and centered to enter the chamber. The rim should be sliding up under the extractor. Of course the rail on each side has to be adjusted.

      Larry Gibson

    • #32608
      Goodsteel
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      Remember that after the first shot, all the cartridges will jump to the front of the magazine box. So, load them that way and make sure they feed from that position. The magazine box walls are what sets up the cartridges for a clean strip, so mess with those first. Bend them in, until it gets as good as it gets, then mess with the rails, but be cautious! You can bend the magazine walls in and out, but once you modify the feed rails, it’s final.

      I look at it like this:
      Use the mag walls and follower as your course adjustments, and gently modify the feed rails to fine tune the timing of the feeding and to dictate that moment when the bolt nose has control of the cartridge, and the feed rails let it go. If the rails turn loose too soon, you have a push feed. If they let go too late, you start jamming the nose in the corner. It needs to be a smooth transition of control running slow, and running fast.
      Many many people (including myself) screw up an action figuring out what has to come first, and what you need to be looking for. I chose a cheap type 77 last ditch action to learn on and sure enough, I ruined it figuring it out, but I didn’t have the benefit of advice from more experienced gunsmiths. Very few know how to make this work, and there’s many a butchered action out there as a testament to those who have tried. All I’m saying is, be careful, and think in 3 dimensions.

    • #32611
      kens
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      I was looking at the reciever rails, on the bottom, it seems the cartridges ride in that radius, isnt that radius where the follower holds them to?

      I also tried some 8mm ammo in this Chilean action, they dont feed either.
      This action will feed .308 & 7×57, but it won’t feed 8×57 nor .35rem. I can see the ramp pushing the neck/shoulder off the rails of the larger caliber.

      I looked at this action compared to a couple other mausers, this action definitely has more metal (higher) feed ramp. This ramp is peculiar in its size compared to 3 other mausers.
      If I turn the action upside down and run a cartridge along the bottom of rails, I can feel the ramp push the neck with 8mm & .35cal.

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