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    • #25001
      gwpercle
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      I was reading some horse pucky about ed’s red cleaner being hygroscopic because of the acetone and will cause rusting and a few other statements I don’t think are correct .
      I know Tim (goodsteel ) has used it , would you give me your real life experiences with and opinion of it. I’m going to mix up some soon and was also wondering if you had any tips, substitutions or additions to the original formula.

      ​I have everything except 1-K kerosene
      The only thing I have for kerosene is clear , hurricane lamp oil, the can says it is deoderized kerosene , do you think this would be a suitable substitution for 1-K ?
      If both Ed Harris and you like it ….then it has to be a winner !
      Anybody else out there use it , tell me about it .

      Thanks for starting this site, I’m enjoying it !
      Gary

    • #25004
      Anonymous
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      I have recently started using it and am very impressed by it. I haven’t been using it long enough to say from experience but according to Ed it can be used to store firearms for up to a year.

    • #25005
      Goodsteel
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      If it’s on the internet it has to be true eh? LOL!

      I’m a professional gunsmith……..like really. I don’t just type this stuff I do it for real.

      I also heard that the acetone in Ed’s red will melt your gunstock finish. Never mind the fact that acetone does that because it is an unsaturated solvent and when mixed with the kerosine, ATF, and mineral spirits, it becomes something else entirely. That’s like saying you won’t eat biscuits because you know from first hand experience how bad baking powder tastes. Duh! It’s not just baking powder anymore!
      You can’t select one component that makes up a complex witches brew, and assume that it works the same way in that situation. That’s dumb as snake mittens.

      Ed’s red in it’s original four ingredient form is a fantastic cleaner that does not harm wood finishes, nor is it hygroscopic anywhere but in somebodies minds eye. Keyboard commandos are everywhere. One thing none of them do is post pictures though. If they do, they are heavily edited, or the description is missing key points of information. Watch for this, and avoid such know-it-all’s like the plague. Most of them are big on talk and short on experience.
      You know you’re looking at the real deal, when somebody challenges conventional thought with descriptions, pictures, and scientific comparisons that boil down to more than the poster’s word things are the way they are.

    • #25009
      gwpercle
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      Thanks for the straight story , that “keyboard commando ” , as you put it , was just spreading horse puckey like I thought . I’m starting to recognize their style of stating “facts”.
      The stuff he was spewing just didn’t ring true. Found a can of the red 1 – K kerosene in the shed so I’m good to go with the original formula. I thought the 1 -K would have a stronger kerosene odor but the clear lamp oil I have actually has a stronger kerosene smell than the red stuff ? Go figure . Tomorrow’s project….make up some Ed’s Red Cleaner !
      Gary

    • #25020
      VANN
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      Oh, yeah I’ll rust your gun up real bad, just like Hoppe’s #9 will eat your bore if left in to long.

    • #25023
      JPHolla
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      If you’re concerned, use turpentine instead of acetone. I agree there is probably nothing to worry about. It’s like those people who think they’re so smart when they put 2+2 together and tell everyone that aluminum gas checks/bullets/jackets will wear out a barrel because aluminum oxide is used to make sandpaper.

    • #25030
      lead-1
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      I guess I never thought about it as in ingredients changing the mix, I use Ed’s Red and am happy with the results. But, I didn’t add the acetone because when I first heard about ER, the people talking about it for the most part said leave out the acetone to save the wood finish and or not ruin polymers, so I did.
      I may just have to mix up some ER with acetone and wipe down an old stock to prove to myself it won’t hurt the finish. I am still learning the tricks that are to some folks considered, basic.

    • #25036
      Goodsteel
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      JPHolla;n3323 wrote: If you’re concerned, use turpentine instead of acetone. I agree there is probably nothing to worry about. It’s like those people who think they’re so smart when they put 2+2 together and tell everyone that aluminum gas checks/bullets/jackets will wear out a barrel because aluminum oxide is used to make sandpaper.

      Bingo.
      I was also told that Linotype bullets will wear out my barrel because Antimony in it’s raw form looks like a crystal.

    • #25037
      Goodsteel
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      lead-1;n3333 wrote: I guess I never thought about it as in ingredients changing the mix, I use Ed’s Red and am happy with the results. But, I didn’t add the acetone because when I first heard about ER, the people talking about it for the most part said leave out the acetone to save the wood finish and or not ruin polymers, so I did.
      I may just have to mix up some ER with acetone and wipe down an old stock to prove to myself it won’t hurt the finish. I am still learning the tricks that are to some folks considered, basic.

      OK, these “people talking about it”…………how many of them showed pictures of a ruined stock?
      How many of them did a side by side test with other popular gun cleaners?
      Exactly which of the dozens of popular gun finishes is Ed’s red supposed to dissolve?

      You would think that simply demonstrating what they assert to be true would be a requirement before they were allowed to make statements in public, but if you actually question those spouting drivel for this basic information, you could get banned for busting their chops, no matter how nice you were about asking for it.

      This is why the information on the internet is watered down. For every one guy who will write about an experience he designed and walked through in an attempt to learn the real truth, there’s 100 more with a keyboard and a dream about how they think the world works.
      This happens all the time. None of us are immune. Human beings are not rational creatures, we are rationalizing creatures. We are all looking for truth that applies only to us, but all the really great truth in history applies to everyone.
      The modern agenda says that each person defines their own version of the truth, but I say that only works if you don’t have the brains God gave a cantaloupe. When you get people from 10 different perspectives working towards a single goal, they all start recognizing the larger truth that applies to all of them, and that is what they key off of, because everything else is just personal perspective that can change by how you look at it, or which way the wind blows.

    • #25040
      kungfustyle
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      I don’t have a picture but I let an Argentinean Mauser soak standing up and some Ed’s red dripped down and took some of the finish off of the stock in one streak, but that was my fault for not leaving it level. Bottom line don’t let it stay on the finish. Clean it up and you will have no problems.

    • #25042
      Goodsteel
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      kungfustyle;n3343 wrote: I don’t have a picture but I let an Argentinean Mauser soak standing up and some Ed’s red dripped down and took some of the finish off of the stock in one streak, but that was my fault for not leaving it level. Bottom line don’t let it stay on the finish. Clean it up and you will have no problems.

      In your opinion, is there any gun cleaning solvent that would not have done that if it were used in the same way?

    • #25044
      Daniel
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      I have used Ed’s Red since about 1990 with great satisfaction. I figure that any solvent or even oil can damage some stock finishes so I try to avoid getting it on the stock. If I do, Oh Well. For copper and lead removal, specific commercial solvents have proven more effective but I don’t think Ed’s Red was ever promoted for such purposes. It is an excellent rust preventative, lubricant and carbon and rust cutter.

    • #25047
      rhbrink
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      Why put acetone in it to start with? The original receipe didn’t use it I think that the acetone came later when shotgunners were using it to help clean out any plastic fouling from the wads that they were using. Mineral spirits, tranny fluid, turpentine (the kind that comes from trees) works great for me I have been using it for years with no problems.

      RB

    • #25093
      chutesnreloads
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      I use a simplified formula found in Glen Fryxell’s book Ingot to Target.Equal parts acetone, transmission fluid,xylene.No rust but it WILL eat up plastic.Not allowed it to get on wood finish so couldn’t say on that but my guess is yes it’ll eat the finish.I believe its the xylene that attacks the plastic though not the acetone.Keep it on the metal and it works great.

    • #25109
      Reg
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      Have used Ed’s Red for at least 10 years now and often ran it right along side Hoppe’s #9. I think it does every bit as good a job cleaning as well as protecting metal. Not calling it better but saying it is every bit as good. No problem with any stock finishes but then again I generally remove the metal from the wood when cleaning then wipe up any excess before re assembly.
      Common sense must prevail. If you are putting any gun away for an extended period of time especially in a damp climate, then use Rig or some other kind of long term storage grease. Also after cleaning but before firing, wipe out your bore and clean it well, I use lacquer thinner.
      One thing that should be mentioned, acetone is part of the recipe but will evaporate in nothing flat so keep it capped when not in use.
      I like Ed’s Red and will continue to use it.

    • #25119
      Goodsteel
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      When I clean Remington 1100s or similar, I have to get the powder blast out of the forend wood. If Ed’s red is so bad for finishes, I suppose I should quit spraying it right on the wood, scrubbing it with a toothbrush, and wiping it clean with a rag eh?

    • #25140
      gwpercle
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      Thanks for the reply’s guys . I was having trouble finding a suitable container to put it in , Took a few minutes , but found an almost empty Quart Marvel Mystery Oil metal can with a metal top , that was perfect because I just barely had 8 ounces of acetone left in the container, been using it to clean new bullet moulds.
      You wouldn’t believe how hard it is to find a proper container, in my shed that is , most containers are plastic, all were HDPE , everything I had metal was occupied, I’m going to start pack ratting good old metal containers…even the new MMO containers are now plastic ! Drats ! I have three , 2 are full of MMO , I’m not throwing them away !
      For anyone concerned about how it smells, I used a K-1kerosene meant to fuel a heater, so it didn’t have that strong kerosene smell. ATF has a oil smell..not bad. Odorless mineral spirits didn’t have a strong odor and acetone smells like acetone….but after mixing it all up in the can, it smelled pretty good. A whole lot better than the old G.I. Bore Cleaner…that stuff reeked, my wife made me and the cleaned gun stay out of the bedroom for a while. I showered, the gun had to stay in the gun cabinet..
      I would give Ed’s Red a thumbs up in the smell category…not bad at all.
      Now I got to go dirty up some guns !
      Gary

    • #25143
      Goodsteel
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      I mix the stuff in a 1 gallon can that used to hold acetone. I pour it from there into a re-purposed Windex bottle.
      Been using the same Windex bottle for a year……

    • #25198
      kungfustyle
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      Goodsteel;n3345 wrote:

      In your opinion, is there any gun cleaning solvent that would not have done that if it were used in the same way?

      No you are correct. I bet just about anything would have done it. Just clean it up as you go and you are golden. Best/cheapest solvent around.

    • #26235
      gwpercle
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      Update on my Ed’s Red , mixed up the four part formula , no lanolin, and it’s a great cleaner. Cleaned two rifles and three hand guns , so far, It works great, just as good as store bought . It’s not only good for a rifle bore but a caked up lube-sizer H & I dies…it’s the best. Cleaned them up easier than any thing else I’ve tried. And leaves a little protective oil when your done.
      Going to rebuild my 40 year old Lube-sizer and will use ER to clean it up inside and outside. Bullet lube is not the easiest thing to clean off metal but ER does it best for me. It’s also good for cleaning out the insides of reloading dies.
      I wish I had it when I recently rebuilt a severely neglected Lyman All American Turret press , I wasted a lot of money on store bought WD40 , PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench….could have done it all with ER solvent and its offspring cleaner-lube and penetrating oil…Just didn’t know.
      I discovered that ATF mixed 1 to 1 with kerosene makes a dandy general purpose type CLP . And ATF mixed 1 to 1 with acetone makes the best penetrating oil you can buy. I saw an in depth test and it won the gold medal when compared to a lot of brand name penetrating oils.
      I’m sold on the stuff , it works and is economical…what else can you say.

      Thanks guys for turning me on to it,
      Gary

    • #26238
      Goodsteel
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      Ya don’t say.
      Let us know if you experience any rust due to it’s "hygroscopic nature". Surely if any of the things people say are true, soaking your 450 in the stuff will produce a rusted hunk of metal without a lick of paint left on it. LOL!

    • #26252
      goody
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      I am about ready to make a new batch and I was thinking of leaving the acetone out because that stuff evaborates so fast why do I need it in a batch that will last me about 3 years?

    • #26257
      Anonymous
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      Something must be wrong with my Ed’s Red. I have some in a metal can I mixed in 98. Still hasn’t rusted through. I must have scrimped on the acetone. 😉

    • #26912
      VANN
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      Here lately I’ve been mixing in about 25% Seafoam motor treatment in my Eds Red. Not sure but it seems to break down carbon a little bit better.

    • #26916
      lar45
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      I made my first batch about 10-12 years ago Everyone was talking about it, so I rounded up the materials and mixed up a gallon of the stuff.
      I was cleaning out my 35 Whelen to get ready to test different lubes with plain based pistol boolits at elevated velocities. I was raised on Hoppies no. 9 so I scrubbed the barrel with it until I started getting fairly clean patches. Then I remembered that I had just made the Ed’s Red, so I Ran a wet patch through the barrel and it came out very dark. I was very surpised, so I ran a couple of dry patches through, then ran a patch with Hoppies and again came out with a very light patch. So I followed it up with a patch of Ed’s Red and again it produced a very dark patch. So I scrubbed it clean with Ed’s Red and never looked back.

    • #26920
      Harter
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      Just a note about what you use as a standard solvent. It may or may not apply to every solution but……

      When a particular solvent Hopes for example is used it builds a film of of whatever stays stuck to the metal and the solids in the solvent, at what for practical purposes is at cellular level sort of ,much like a cook surface on a cast iron pan. . When you change solvents they lift and leave different stuff. So you start with a grungy hawk shop rifle and you scrub it with Hoppes it cleans up pretty quickly. Then you hit it with some Barnes or sweets and patches look like a prize fighter all black and blue . You wash that out with Hoppes and more black patches . It’s not a reflection of of the solvent but rather the adaptation of it and the fouling. Odds are good that that Bens and or its solvents or components have been in the barrel so there is little to nothing for it or the fouling to stick to so it lifts everything.
      I would bet that after long term use ,10 yr or 20 cleaningz that a patch soaked in another solvent would lift some fouling . I might loose my money but the mechanic in me says that’s what happens. It’s just like running a particular brand of oil in your car and it getting a new grade or formulation or putting in some new additive and you do the 3 tank oil check and the oil is black.

    • #26927
      popper
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      patents/US2741596 covers the kerosene/acetone mixture. Note – not known why it works. ATF is commonly known as a ‘soap’..Kerosene is a slow working solvent, action is sped up with the addition of acetone, ATF being soap keeps the junk in suspension. Primarily, the combination is used to dissolve and keep paraffin waxes in solution – your waxy lube! I use it without the acetone (don’t use waxy lubes) as it does have oil in it to provide some corrosion protection. Acetone does absorb water but who knows what happens when you mix it. I don’t know all the stuff in ATF either so we don’t really know what we have. It does work. Wife got some Zap but I’m cleaning the shower pan with kerosene and coke. Per the MDS, coke has same stuff in it – hydrocarbon acid..

    • #27911
      gwpercle
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      It’s been 4 months since I started using Ed’s Red Bore solvent and Ed’s Red gun lube ( ATF and kerosene ) have used it on every firearm I own, Lyman 450 lube-sizer , Lyman, Eagle and Pacific presses , H & I dies and loading dies….NO RUST on anything, my loading stuff is in an unheated , unair conditioned wood framed out building (no insulation..big tool shed ) in Baton Rouge , La. , the capitol of heat , humidity and mosquitoes. If things are going to rust , it will happen here. Firearms are in the house , built in 1929 , not much insulation but we do have an a/c unit…still nothing has shown any signs of rusting or attracting any moisture.
      Gary

    • #29094
      gwpercle
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      Update on cost of 1 gallon of Ed’s Red Bore Cleaner

      Went by wall mart and picked up one quart of the following:
      Super Tech Dexron III ATF……………$2.84
      Sunnyside Acetone…………………….$4.30
      Klean-Strip odorless mineral spirits…$4.87
      Crown 1-K kerosene……………………$4.83

      Total……………………………………….$16.84 + tax

      A gallon of Hoppe’s No.9 is $55.00 + shipping from Midway ! That’s a great savings in my book.!

      Gary

    • #29101
      Waksupi
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      I’ve used nothing else for over ten years.

    • #29103
      Goodsteel
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      I’ll tell you something else it does real well. Makes a dandy fire starter. A little spritz spritz, touch a match and your done.

    • #29106
      dragon813gt
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      Goodsteel;n8396 wrote: I’ll tell you something else it does real well. Makes a dandy fire starter. A little spritz spritz, touch a match and your done.

      It might be but white gas is a lot more fun. Give it a little bit of dwell time and watch the ground burn around you. The kids love it……from a safe distance of course :laugh:

    • #29107
      Butch Wax
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      Like Tim, I was a professional gunsmith for 30 plus years. Was also a class 6 ammo mfg too. I will say this much flat out.
      Dirty firearms are well over 50% of the reasons for malfunctions and weapons brought to gunsmiths in the first place. Keep your weapon clean and lubed and it should last you a lifetime and those that follow you.

      Ed’s Red was poached from Julian Hatcher with only changing Sperm oil out for ATF fluid as a substitute. Hatcher poached the formula from Frankford Arsenal back in the late 20’s, and they poachjed it from Dr. Hutson who originally developed it around 1900 for the then new smokeless powder.

      Acetone is an agent in the mix that speeds things along. It does attack the plastic left in the bore of shotguns with some fast results. It is, however, able to evaporate quickly and does have a habit of “leaving the bottle” so to speak if the bottle/can is left open for a while. And like ALL solvent based agents, can etch or disolve other things if left in contact long enough.
      Common sense guys…. Spill stuff, then wipe it up for Pete’s sake!!!

      A suitable substiture for the K1 is Kano Kroil. Used in place of the kerosene, it is a perfect element in the mixture lessening the contents of flash liquid as well. Further, it adds a greater penetrating quality to the mixture for getting below the fouling for it’s removal.

      And as all folks, I’m going to add my own opinion here. I personally leave the acetone out and replace the kerosene with Kroil. This leaves only one flash liquid (highly flamable) in the mix. Since I seldom shoot my one and only shotgun Ifail to see the need for acetone’s assistance. The addition of Kroil to the mix furthers the penetration as mentioned above plus lends a slight presence of preservative to the cleaner as it rests in the bore after cleaning.

      Super simple lube based cleaner with three contents poached from all the others from the past and put here for your use if you so desire. If not, it don’t hurt my feelings none. My guns are not rusted up even in average 70% humidity here in East Texas pine woods.

      1 part Mineral Spirits (Paint Thinner)
      1 part Kano Kroil
      1 part Dextron III ATF

      That’s it. Short and simple. Works on all my weapons

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