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    • #30199
      WCM
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      The latest and greatest are the Bore Tech Eliminator and M- Pro 7
      We just looked up a material safety data sheet.

      The PH on both these products is about 10.5 with is extremely alkaline . (very strong)

      My question is , will they etch barrels like some of the strong ammonia products?

      I have used Eliminator with good results as far as copper removal.

      The MSDS does say to wear rubber gloves and have proper ventilation.

      I have also used Rem Clean mild abrasive solution with very good results , but try to only use it for very bad fouling.

    • #30204
      Sgt. Mike
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      I don’t know…..
      I use sweets 7.62, nylon brush, tight fitting patch/jag and Kroil right after.

    • #30214
      Goodsteel
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      Another thumbs up for Sweets 7.62.
      I mop thrice with a tight patch, push 2-5 patches with Eds red, then mop with JB bore paste.
      I repeat this till the blue goes away on the Sweets 7.62 patches.

      The Sweets is never in contact with the bore for more than 10 minutes.

    • #30220
      Waksupi
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      I have used Blue Goop, the benchrest shooter’s solution for years. Take a jug of strong grade 5% ammonia, and put a piece of copper in to soak for about a week. The solution turns blue. I’m not sure of the chemical reasoning, but the added copper gives the mix an affinity to copper fouling. Cheap, which suited my taste forever.

    • #30221
      Larry Gibson
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      + another for Sweet’s.

      Only if necessary or if corrosive milsurp ammo has been fired do I do the following; I clean with Hoppe’s #9 (Occasionally use Butch’s Bore Shine) then use a loose fitting patch to saturate bore with Sweet’s and let sit for 20 – 30 minutes. Patch out residue and redo with 2nd application of Sweet’s and let sit for another 20-30 minutes. Patch out, reclean with Hoppe’s #9 and oil bore with Kroil.

      If the above doesn’t do the trick (not very often) I use JB Bore paste mixed 50/50 with Hoppe’s #9 on a patch over a worn or one size smaller bore brush. A few passes with that and moly residue, PC residue, copper fouling and cupro-nickel fouling is removed.

      Larry Gibson

    • #30234
      WCM
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      If you like JB then give the Remington Bore cleaner a try. It is milder than JB and works just as well.
      It is available at Wal Mart.

      I do not use Rem oil in the bore as it has Teflon in it.
      According to some of the bench rest shooters telfon is best kept out of the bore.

      I like the Bore Tech Eliminator, but may give it more thought since the Ph is so high.

      I have also seen some ammonia cleaners etch a bore if the solution is too strong.

    • #30235
      seaboltm
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      I have had good luck with the foaming copper removers.

    • #30237
      WCM
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      I called the technician at Bore Tech and he said they have done extensive studies with the Eliminator product and it will not etch a bore.

      It is the best product I have used for getting copper out besides Remington Bore Cleaner or JB.
      I have not used the M-Pro 7 ,but I know it is a different chemical than the Eliminator.
      It also has a Ph of about 10.

    • #30241
      Waksupi
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      “I have also seen some ammonia cleaners etch a bore if the solution is too strong.”

      Very true! NEVER leave an ammonia based cleaner in a barrel for more than ten minutes.

    • #30244
      Butch Wax
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      I have been accused of being a “clean freak” about my weapons. True enough in that I clean my weapons every time I shoot them removing all fouling and completly oiling and preserving them. In nearly 6 decades I’ve tried many cleaning products and settled upon these:

      Uncle Wade’s Crud Cutter (Personal mix based upon Dr. Hudson’s original formula ca. 1910) Removes carbon and lead well. Will not remove heavy copper however.

      M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner (Carbon cleaner with good results.)

      Barnes CR-10 (Best copper remover in a bottle. Strong ammonia)

      Stuff that fails on epic level;:confused:

      M-Pro7 Copper Remover. (Pitiful proformance. Went into the trash after first use.) Save your money and don’t buy it.

      Hoppe’s #9. Yes, many are going to howl and call for my head, but the original formula is no longer used and it has been drastically watered down to make the EPA happy. It ain’t the good ‘ole #9 that I grew up with.

      Gun cleaning products vary as much as the weapons they clean. Everyone has their prime favorites and some they dislike. It’s a personal choice that seldom sees anyone agree.

    • #30250
      Smoke4320
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      Sweets 7.62 is my go to. never found a bore I could not get copper out using it

    • #30252
      Scharfschuetze
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      I’m on the bandwagon with Sweet’s 7.62. I also like JB Bore Paste and Witches Brew as far as abrasive cleaners go. I have no experience with the newer products listed.

    • #30257
      Rattlesnake Charlie
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      I once cleaned up a buddy’s No 1 Enfield. I used my Outer’s Foul Out. The first round it only took about 60 seconds to coat the rod and the indicators to signal stop. I spent a week on that thing. Good that it had an AC adapter.

      What is other’s opinion of the Outer’s Foul Out?

    • #30264
      WCM
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      Rattlesnake Charlie;n9961 wrote: I once cleaned up a buddy’s No 1 Enfield. I used my Outer’s Foul Out. The first round it only took about 60 seconds to coat the rod and the indicators to signal stop. I spent a week on that thing. Good that it had an AC adapter.

      What is other’s opinion of the Outer’s Foul Out?

      I have used one before with good success on an old Mannlicher .257 Roberts that was badly fouled.
      I think the gun had never been cleaned properly.

      Nowadays I would just clean the gun with Remington Bore cleaner and then follow that with the Eliminator.

      I like the Eliminator because it has no noxious smell.
      They do recommend using it in a well ventilated area, which is common sense with any strong chemical.

    • #30575
      BeeMan
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      I have used Sweets and Barnes CR10 but settled on Montana X-treme since it claims to not harm the bore. Wipeout and the Gunslick foaming cleaner work too. Basic cleaner is Ed’s Red.

    • #30647
      WCM
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      I have noticed some powders are listed as having a de copper additive .
      One such powder is the new Rel 16.
      I wonder if that is some mild abrasive that is mixed with the powder?

    • #30656
      Goodsteel
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      WCM;n10501 wrote: I have noticed some powders are listed as having a de copper additive .
      One such powder is the new Rel 16.
      I wonder if that is some mild abrasive that is mixed with the powder?

      Sarge knows. He told me once, but I forgot.

    • #30658
      BeeMan
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      WCM;n10501 wrote: I have noticed some powders are listed as having a de copper additive .
      One such powder is the new Rel 16.
      I wonder if that is some mild abrasive that is mixed with the powder?

      The additives are not abrasives. Typically tin, bismuth, or lead. Some early artillery rounds with copper drive bands used a piece of lead wire on top of the smokeless powder charge. The effect is to chemically bind the copper rather than allow it to adhere to the bore surface. The resulting ash gets blow out with each successive round fired.

    • #30667
      Sgt. Mike
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      maybe, just might be the case

    • #30721
      WCM
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      I called the tech at Alliant powders and he said all the Rel series has the de coppering agent.
      He also said it is a chemical and not any type of abrasive.

      He also said the Rel 15 and Vit 140 are not the same powder formulation.

    • #30731
      ZmanWakeForest
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      I’ve never used the Sweets, so I can’t comment, but it appears many of y’all like it. I like to use Tipton’s Truly Remarkable Bore Solvent and I have had good luck with it. If fouling is extremely bad, I use Montana X-treme Copper Killer (50BMG Special Formula), but you gotta be careful with the time you let that in there. On a regular basis, just for maintenance, I use Shooter’s Choice MC#7.

    • #30765
      WCM
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      I took a note today .I shot ten rounds with Alliant powder,and there was very little copper in the barrel.
      Then as soon as I started shooting IMR powder the first five rounds there was major copper in the bore.
      Too bad because my 06 likes IMR 4350 and IMR 4831.
      With other powders the groups are crap.
      With those two powders at max loads it sings..

    • #30766
      Rattlesnake Charlie
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      WCM, what Alliant powder did you use?
      Have you tried other Alliant powder in your 06?
      I’m interested as I plan on loading some .30-06 this winter. My choices are narrowed somewhat because I’m loading for a Garand.

    • #30767
      WCM
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      Rattlesnake Charlie;n10640 wrote: WCM, what Alliant powder did you use?
      Have you tried other Alliant powder in your 06?
      I’m interested as I plan on loading some .30-06 this winter. My choices are narrowed somewhat because I’m loading for a Garand.

      I tried Rel 15 today ,and it showed promise.I shot 52 grs and a 150 gr Hornady flat base.
      I also tried 59 grs of Rel 19 and the 165 gr bullet.
      I got about a two inch group at 100 yds.

      Then I tried 59 grs of IMR 4350 with the 150 gr bullet at got all shots touching in a nice cluster.
      one shot was out of the group but that might have been me.

      I took my sons advice today.
      Don’t look at the target between shots, just shoot and focus on exact form and consistency from shot to shot.

      My rifle also likes the Hornday 165 flat base spire point and 59 grs of IMR 4831.

      Theses loads are maximum, so work up in your rifle .
      I am shooting a Ruger #1 and trying to see how consistent the rifle will shoot with jacketed bullets before I move on to cast bullets.

      My rifle seems to prefer flat base bullet to boat tails.

      I would like to try some of the new Rel 16 ,but the local shop doesn’t have any.

    • #30879
      WCM
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      I might mention a product I have used for over twenty years with great success for rust prevention.
      It use to be Birchwood Casey’s Sheath. Now it is called Barricade.
      I like it because it doesn’t leave an oily film in the bore.
      I always run a patch of it through the bore when I am done cleaning.
      I live in a very humid area, and I haven’t had a problem with rust while using this product.

      They are making a new product for long term storage called Hopper Spit.

      This is a good company with great customer service.

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