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    • #34077
      lar45
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      Hi guys, the wife and I were watching the news the other night and they had a segment on “Ghost Guns”. Building the 80% guns with no paperwork involved.
      The wife said, that looks like fun, I should try and build one. Soooo… This will be officially her rifle and build, but under close supervision. I found an 80% kit on GunBroker from Davidson Defense. It’s all supposed to be just parts, so we’ll have to put the upper together also.

      Davidson Defense Forged Upper Receiver
      Davidson Defense Black Nitride Bolt Carrier Group (BCG)
      DPMS Forward Assist & Port Door Assembly
      Davidson Defense Steel Gas Block, Gas tube and roll pin
      Davidson Defense 12″ Ultra Slim KeyMod Handguard
      16″ 5.56 NATO M4 Phosphate Finish Barrel With 1:9 Twist 1/2×28 TPI Threaded for muzzle
      Bird Cage Flash Hider & Crush Washer
      Dpms Forged Charging handle
      Complete Lower Parts Kit With Grip (LPK)
      Trinity Force Alpha Adjustable Buttstock and Buffer Tube
      LOWER RECEIVER is 80% FINISHED – aluminum

      I picked up an 80% Arms Universal Easy Jig
      It looked like a quality tool and they had a great video to go with it.

      I picked up a couple of tool kits from Brownells and Botach, so I’m hoping that I should have about everything to get it done.
      Now I’m just waiting on everything to show up.

      Has anyone done an 80% build? Any big pitfalls I should be looking out for?

      Also any pet loads for the 223 in an AR-15″? I have a pile of once fired Win brass, Hornady 55gn JSP bullets and a couple of jugs of CFE223 that I thought I’d start with.

    • #34078
      Goodsteel
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      Glenn, could you provide a total cost for everything seen above (including the fixtures)?
      I have an endmill and router for you next time we meet.

      Also, can you tell me more about the barrel? Any idea where it was made?

    • #34079
      lar45
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      You definitely don’t save any money by just building one, but if you were to do a few, then it might be more cost effective.

      The 80% Jig is $140 https://www.80percentarms.com/collections/lower-jigs/products/80-ar-15-easy-jig
      Their took kit, drills and end mills… = $45
      The AR15 kit from Davidson Defense is $369.99 http://www.gunbroker.com/item/629287158
      Brownells AR15 tool kit is $109.99 http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/gunsmithing-tool-kits/ar-15-m16-critical-tools-kit-prod41214.aspx
      Aluma Hyde from Brownells is $12.99 http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/paint-finishes/air-cure-aerosol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx
      TCE Cleaner is $13.99 http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/solvents-degreasers/degreasers/tce-degreaser-aerosol-prod1157.aspx
      Armorer’s Package from Botach is $79.95 https://www.botach.com/kley-zion-ar15-m4-armorers-package/
      I picked up some Relton A9 Aluminum cutting fluid on Ebay for $8 http://www.ebay.com/itm/252344031379?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    • #34082
      Goodsteel
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      Looks like $780 so far. I can’t open the Botach Armorers package link, but it seems like it might be reduntant to the Brownells AR-15 kit you mentioned?
      Regardless, you’re still getting a functional ghost gun for about the same price as a basic RockRiver AR. Middle of the road cost and a fun project to boot.

      BTW, I’ve got a buddy who’s doing a pretty good side business hydro dipping, and Moly Resin coating (similar to Ceracoat) if you’d like a professional finish applied.

    • #34085
      lar45
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      The Botach kit comes with:
      Barrel Spline Socket Rod
      Fitting Pin
      Trigger Fitting Pin
      Gas Block Roll Pin Tool
      Gas Block Pin Punch Set
      https://www.botach.com/kley-zion-armorers-gunsmithing-tools/

      It may have doubled up on a couple pins, but the Barrel Spline Socket Rod was the main thing to get that the Brownells kit didn’t have.
      It’s splined to fit into the breach of the barrel and is supposed to take the torque when tightening the barrel nut, so you don’t risk tweaking the upper.
      I’ve watched a couple of youtubes were they did it with and without. It seemed like a good idea, so I got one.
      I’m gonna have to get me a seperate tool box to keep all of the AR15 tools in one place.

      I asked about who makes the barrels, but haven’t heard back yet.

    • #34088
      popper
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      Don’t understand the barrel spline tool, Clamshell works fine as all the torque is applied to the upper, not the barrel. At 30-40 ft-# on the nut and only 5-10 deg of rotation where you actually put a crush on the barrel flange, barrel is free of force. Only makes sense if yo have to add the extension. You should inscribe a serial number on it. Ghost guns don’t make any sense to me, if guns (ARs) are outlawed and your found with one you are in trouble anyway. I’d rather get a finished lower, add a good trigger & parts kit. Mine don’t even have FA or DC on them, no need..

    • #34089
      lar45
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      Adding a serial # to it would be an excellent idea. I’ll have the wife think up something creative.
      Tim, does your buddy have a website to look at for the dipped parts? Can his coatings go over the parts that are already coated? Everything is Black except the lower which is Aluminum in the white.
      I got a spray can of flat black Aluma hyde to coat the lower with. I guess you spray on 4 coats, then bake it in the oven to let it cure.

    • #34090
      lar45
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      I got a response back about the barrels. He said that they use 5 different barrel manufactures that are mostly in the south.

    • #34091
      Goodsteel
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      The fear is that the upper will get twisted. I support the upper very well with my milling machine vice, so its no issue, but if somebody wanted to, they could vice the nut wrench, and use the spline wrench to tighten the nut. I don’t get too wrapped around the axle with this though. Once you hit the torque setting, its all about lining up a gas tube hole. I just scronk that puppy down, fine a hole, and let the rough edge drag. It ain’t coming loose.
      One hole behind, and it feels too loose. One hole past, and there’s veins popping out of your forehead.

    • #34093
      popper
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      Nut screws onto the upper. New nuts don’t have holes for the tube. Spline tool puts all the torque on the extension pin.

    • #34096
      Sgt. Mike
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      Glenn,
      I have a 80% jig in my tool box, sitting next to 80% lower, and no not hard pretty easy just go slow. My Grendel upper and lower are from both 80% builds.
      Here is a pretty good write up with the milling as well as one method of attaching serial numbers, etc, etc. (http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/484783_Vader-Spade-s-80–AR-15-build—Milling–Etching–and-Anodizing.html&page=1)
      NO I did not save any money when I did mine in 2009 of course all that is truly required is your name and address. Why did I do the 80%? Not for any other reason than I wanted to control fit between upper and lower.
      I had mine engraved which if I was to do it again, I would use the method in the link above. I think the electro etching would be superior.

    • #34098
      Goodsteel
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      I agree. Which is why I do not use this method personally. Better to brace up the upper housing well, and not be ham handed with it.

    • #34624
      Anonymous
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      I am far form a expert on the ar –but here is my 5cents ps I have put on about 10 Barrels on uppers

      use some form of grease on barrel threads
      Tighten and loosed nut about 3 times before you do a final app 25-30 foot lb (I don’t use a torque wrench at this time)
      I have used the clam shell / insert to hold the upper
      I have not used more than 40ftlb to aligne holes/tube on any upper
      app 60% of the ones I have done I have had to add a alum shim between the barrel and nut

      I did one where 28ftlb-had the hole perfect but not enough torqure – 30 put it over center- – 40ftlb put hole 1/2 way between holes
      So I cut a pepsi can shim and installed it –and hole (call it hole #1) aligned with hand torque — Hole #2 aligned at 30ft lb

      there is a tool where you can trim upper so you can go shimless but $$

      ps not all barrel nuts are created the same — Some have more holes (spacing different)

      when I get close to where Hole is almost aligned I add 1-2 ftlb to the torque wrench and check holes/aligment at every click

      I have heard of people using as much as 70-90 ft lb — Im chicken not going to go there — I have also heard of people replacing uppers

      My choice for a gas block is one that bolts on (or uses a setscrew) if you ever have to take it apart the pined models are a pain
      Yup bent a few punches taking them apart and one makers spacing can be different from another

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