This topic contains 18 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  Glenn 6 months, 2 weeks ago.

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  • #47717
     Glenn 
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    I have a Chinese Mak-90(AK-47 Sporter) that shoots pretty good with open sights and Lapua ammo.  In my younger days I could hold 3 shots for about 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ at 100 yards off of the bench.  My eyes are older now and the help of a scope might be nice to have.

    I have tried 3 different scope mounts that atleast double the group sizes.  The first one I tried was a B-Square mount that replaced the trigger and hammer pins with some extended ones and the scope mount was attached to them. This was not a very rigid mount and the results were terrible.

    Next I tried a dust cover that had a rail on top and two screws in back that was supposed to tighten things up and provide a solid mount.  It was terrible.

    The last thing I have tried was a side mount that had me drill 3 holes in the left side of the receiver to mount a plate to.  I got the two outside screws in place, but the middle one would have interfered with a spring, so i left it off.  The plate does seem to be held tightly in place.  But I’m wondering if I might need to mix up some 2 part epoxy and then screw it down with the glue in place.  Or maybe drill 3 new holes about 1/4″ higher?

    The scope mount slides on and clamps in place.  I use the side rail for a laser and flashlight.

    I’m all out of the Lapua ammo that shot so good, but have found some Win 123 JSP that will print a nice group, then shift over about 3″ and print another nice group.  I have tried some handloads with Barnes X and RL-7 that give about the same performance on paper.

    My thought is that the scope mount might not be attached tight enough.  There are no wear marks around it and it does seem to be very tight on the side of the receiver.  Is there an option 4 for mounting an optic on this that might work?  I know that the AK’s are not known for their stellar accuracy, but I’d be happy with something that would give a repeatable 2″ at 100yds.

    Any thoughts?

     

     

  • #47723
     popper 
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    Only AK I’ve ever shot was from a Rusky next to me at the range.  It had a side mount scope next to the safety lever (selector) that was a kind of wedge shape in the side plate.  Got a nice ‘brow’ dent from that one & the mount came loose.

    Used to see a lot of them at the range several years back, now it’s just ARs.

  • #47728
     kens 
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    I barrelled a mauser to 7.62×39. I tried several kinds of ammo.

    PPU shot good as did (if I remember right) Wolf polyformance

    Well, shot better than milsurp anyway.

     

  • #47732
     JPHolla 
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    You may have issues ever getting cheap mounts to work on an AK. Quick-detach mounts especially. I believe Midwest Industries is currently considered the standard for decent AK mounts. And that plate will have to be absolutely solid. I think you will have a hard time getting that with screws. I also wouldn’t use a heavy scope or load the mount up with flashlights and lasers because that’s just that much more mass for the rifle to push against during recoil and work the mount loose. It can be done, but it’s not as easy as many other guns.

  • #47846
     Glenn 
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    What would you think about welding the side plate in place?  The side plate is steel and the slide on piece is aluminum.

    Then maybe go with a lightweight 1-4 power scope.

  • #47847
     Goodsteel 
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    I think that would be a very bad idea Glenn. If you want a pic-rail on that SOB, I can mill you one from billet, then screw and solder it in place.

    If what you have there is steel, then you can do the same. Buy the low heat, solder paste from Brownells. Use muriatic acid to strip the bluing from both pieces where they mate, apply solder paste, screw together loosely. Heat gently till the solder flows, then scronk down the screws and let it solidify. If you do it right, I say good luck ever getting it to move without heat again.

    The reason for the solder is that if you do this right, it will hold like crazy, but there’s never enough heat to really damage the stamped metal receiver.

    Also, mind the weight of your optic. Use the lightest glass you can find and kill upper weight as much as possible. Also, feel free to strap as many lights, lasers, but pads, and bayonetts you want on the rifle itself.  This will drastically reduce the inertia and the cantilevering shearing force placed on the joint. You want the rifle to resist inertia as much as possible and the mount and scope to move effortlessly. It’s another one of those situations where if you get all the arrows pointing north, everything works right.

  • #47850
     JPHolla 
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    Yeah, I would rivet it like the originals were or weld it. I’ve welded one to a milled receiver, but I don’t know how it would hold up on a stamped one. I like the original commie scopes, but most don’t. Make sure to boresight before completely fastening the plate to the side.

  • #47865
     Glenn 
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    Thanks, Great options.

    I ordered some of the low temp Brownells solder paste.
    Now to look at low weight scopes with a lighted reticle.

  • #48322
     Glenn 
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    I sanded the receiver and the back of the plate to remove the blueing, cleaned with an alcohol wipe and soldered the base in place with the Brownell’s low temp solder.  I touched up the blue around the edges with Brownell’s 44/40 cold blue.

    I picked up a Mueller 2-7 with a lighted reticle and mounted it to the UTG side mount that I had before.  once I had it sighted in, I went back to the bench(75 yds) and tried some Speer 123gn Hot Core loaded with 28gns of AA1680.

    I may have been shooting too fast and the barrel heated up and started walking off.  I’ll load some more and take my time.  I think it shows some promise.

    Next I shot some Tul-Ammo 154gn jsp just because.

    Again, I think I was shooting too fast, but this is way better than what I was getting before.

  • #48350
     Glenn 
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    Well, I shot some more today and right in the middle of a good string… The Illuminated Reticle knob fell off of the Mueller scope!

    It looks like there are 4 tiny screws that vibrated loose.

    Sooooo, I’m sending it back and already ordered a Vortex Crossfire II 1-4x24mm

     

  • #48352
     Rattlesnake Charlie 
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    I think you will be happy with the Vortex Crossfire. I am. A lot of scope for the money.

  • #48586
     Glenn 
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    Well, I found some nice 6 hole Weaver rings to mount the new Crossfire scope in.  I hope that will hold things in place.

    I had noticed that the stock bolts were working loose while shooting, so as long as I had the Locktite out doing the scope, I thought I’d just do the stock bolts also.  I went to unscrew the tang screw and it broke right off.  A closer inspection showed that the stock was starting to split around the tang screw.

    I got the old screw pulled out and thought that I’d better reinforce the area before I tried putting it back together.

    So I scrounged up some no.8 brass machine screws and cut them just short of the width of the stock.  Then drill a couple of holes, one on each side of the tang screw hole.

    I spread the crack apart with a small screw driver, then worked some 2 part epoxy into the crack.

    I filled the holes with 2 part epoxy, coated the screws with a light coat, then hammered them inplace, ending up just under the surface, so I could use some wood putty to fill the holes.

    Once everything looked close enough, I wrapped some wax paper around the repair and blocked it up in the vise with some light pressure.

    I’ll check it in the morning and hopefully have it all put back together by noon.

    I’m wondering about the rear tang screw.  This is the second Mak-90 that I’ve had to repair the wood in the exact same place.  I’m guessing that the rearward travel of the bolt and carrier is slamming to the rear and is what led to the screw being beaten until it cracked and the stock splitting.  I’m pretty sure that the epoxied in brass machine screws will hold the wood together.  The tang screw is just a wood screw.

    I’m thinking about making a pillar out of aluminum or something, drill out a larger hole, epoxy it in place and use a machine screw for the tang instead.

    I was also thinking about angling it slightly so as it was tightened, it would pull the action back against the stock, kind of like Ruger does.

    Or should I just get a small hardened lag bolt to take the place of the tang screw and see if that will be enough with the reinforced wrist?

    Any thoughts?

  • #48590
     Goodsteel 
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    I think you aught to see about replacing your recoil springs with new music wire extra power springs. That will soften up the abuse on that tang screw quite a bit.

    I think putting an insert in there might not be too bad of an idea, but angling it, I’m not too sure about. Your call.

    Personally, I’d screw the stud into the tang with the new screw, apply a liberal amount of 10110 bedding compound in an oversized bedding hole, and let it set up with electricians tape holding it in place. This is a great trick that’s kind of a catchall reinforcement that will go a long way toward bolstering up that stock.

    The other thing I wonder about is if indeed this was going on behind the scenes while you were shooting those groups up yonder, how much effect did it have? Im guessing quite a bit. The accurate shot is a very dynamic event where everything plays together towards one goal (as you know) and something like this could really wreak havoc with an otherwise less than ideal shooting scenario. Things might tighten up quite a bit now that this is fixed!!!

  • #48597
     Glenn 
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    I just ordered a Wolff extra power recoil spring.  We’ll see if that tames things down abit.

  • #48612
     Glenn 
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    I picked up a stick of 1/2″ round Aluminum from Home Depot, drilled and tapped for 1/4×20, and cut it off at .820″ to match the 1/2″ hole I drilled in the tang area of the stock.  I filed a couple of grooves around it to give the glue something to hold onto.

    Next I screwed it onto the tang with a new 1/4×20 1″ Stainless allen screw, plugged the bottom of the hole with some plumber’s putty  and degreased it.  I put a light coat of oil on the bottom and sides of the tang to keep it from getting glued in place.

    I mixed up some epoxy, coated the inside of the hole and smeared some around the new pillar.  Then squished it all into the stock and tightened the pistol grip screw to hold things together.

    I gave it a couple of hours to set up, pulled the screws out and popped the action out of the stock to let it finish curing over night.  I also turned the head of the allen screw down to fit inside the channel of the tang.

    The air conditioning guy is coming over tomorrow to finish installing the heat pump in the shop, so it may be a couple of days before I’ll be able to shoot it and see if it made any difference.

  • #48616
     Artful 
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    Maybe that will give enough time for your Wolff extra power recoil springs to arrive.

  • #48619
     Glenn 
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    I know that I should probably wait for the new wolf spring to get here, but I really want to get the new Vortex scope sighted in and see about shooting a group or 4…

    Maybe I’ll load some ammo to kill some time and give me more things to try.

    The new Heat Pump is about 80% finished.  I just need to tie in the high voltage lines to the main panel and mount one service disconnect for the outside unit.  So hopefully I’ll have heat in the shop tomorrow.  🙂

  • #48971
     Glenn 
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    I picked up a scope mount that mounts inplace of the rear sight. and mounted the Vortex crossfire as far back as I could get it.

    I also put on a Magpul forend so it has a little rail piece to mount the laser and flashlight on.

    I finally got some free time and shot it today with some TulAmmo 124gn SP. 10 shots at 75 yards.

     

    This is definitely a step in the right direction.  Maybe I’ll look closer at the rear sight mount and see if I can drill and tap a couple of holes to mount it more firmly.

  • #48973
     Glenn 
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    When I went back to look at the mount, it had vibrated loose a little.  So I did a little light gunsmithing and drilled and tapped 2 8×40 holes, one in the front and one in the back.  Now it’s screwed down tight.  I’ll just have to wait until morning to see how it shoots.

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