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    • #28341
      Rattlesnake Charlie
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      Just bought two Bushmaster AR-15 stripped lowers. Now, I’m working on figuring out the details on what I need to complete these. One, I expect to become a suppressed SBR in .300 Blackout. The other, a 16 inch barrel in 6.5 Grendel. Yes, it would likely be wear a suppressor too. My quandary is what to finish off the lowers right now. I have a Timney trigger in my AR-15 varmint rig, but have not been in touch with the tactical and accuracy worlds for several years. I intend these to become “heirloom” rifles that I will be proud to pass on to my children. I’m looking for all recommendations from triggers, bolts, gas blocks, glass, etc. I am looking at a 5-yr build period, so there is no crisis on returning any suggestions My main focus will be building very capable “hunting” rifles for deer and hogs. All responses appreciated.

    • #28344
      Harter
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      I haven’t tried any of the things I’m about to suggest but a lot of more knowledgeablefolks than me use them .
      A good NiB BCG for M16 aka full auto.. they are slightly heavier and longer lived in AR 15.
      Check out AR 15 performance for bbls and bolts they will come as a matched pair and be best quality .
      Gas blocks are obviously essential, a steel adjustable is preferred , for my personal taste and as an all purpose hunter I would strongly recommend that it be either a low profile and buried inside a free float hand guard or a quad mount and a hand guard just short of it so that it can be used for alternative iron sights lights and or light and laser or camera. If you go low profile chose a for end with a full rail . With add able short rails as above but not messing with the bbl hum.

      As for butt stocks that’s anybodies guess , i like an adjustable stock with an anti-rattle lock on the adjustment lever. Also here I will recommend a a sealed spring and buffer assemblythe spring rattle just makes me cringe ., I hate that spring bounce . Start with standard buffers and springs for the platform relevant to pistol carbine, mid and rifle length gas .

      Hogue fore ends are heavy and I’ve heard very fussy to torque on and off .

    • #28368
      Sgt. Mike
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      Charlie I like the 6.5 Grendel and built one still have it ….. but now I think I would have went to the 6mm AR ( same case just necked down). The Grendel and or the 264 LBC is a good choice (BTW both are actually interchangeable)

      Timney Trigger would be a good choice and I would echo it.

      Rails on the hand guard well I lean toward the heavy float tube ( eg Houge) as I really think negatively of hanging all that gear out there. But regardless of styles if it floats and does not make contact with the barrel (except for the barrel nut) it will work well.

      Bolt carrier I usually always get the USGI spec, Yankee hill makes some excellent products. Not nocking Black Hole, Raine or others

      Barrels in no particular order Satern Les Bear, Krieger, Boughten, pac-nor, Shilen Brux the list goes on for a bit but whom ever you get to turn and work the barrel asked where the barrel blank will be coming from it will make the biggest difference. I bought a Alexander Arms barrel (the blank was ER Shaw) if I had known whom the blank maker was Bill A could not have given me enough money to take it.

      Gas Blocks —- adjustable clamp ons they can be had in a standard configuration or low mid profile height

      Uppers BILLET heavy wall, look at side charging in conjunction with USGI charging handle if no forward assist.

    • #28371
      Rattlesnake Charlie
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      Thanks for the tips Sgt. Mike.

    • #28373
      Fishman
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      I don’t see why it should take you 5 years to build them. If it is financial issues, then just put a stock trigger in it, and other basics, and then upgrade as needed. That way you can experience the improvement, or lack of, yourself and make a judgement call for the other rifle.

      I have limited experience, but the two areas that seem to affect accuracy the most on mine are the horrible stock trigger group, and the basic quick-adjustable stock. I have limited my trigger improvements to changing out the springs, or minor polishing or improved mil-spec triggers, and to be honest, they are just barely acceptable. The Magpul adjustable stocks that have a friction lever are very nice. It eliminates the rattling and rocking that the basic adjustable stocks all have in them and turns them into the equivalent of a fixed stock while maintaining adjustability.

    • #28374
      Rattlesnake Charlie
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      Fishman;n7477 wrote: I don’t see why it should take you 5 years to build them.

      Time and other commitments. I work on the project as time permits. I wish to get it right the first time.

    • #28393
      Sgt. Mike
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      Charlie take your Time LOL,
      in the Grendel build that I did I went with a adjustable Low profile clamp on gas block. It was easy to tune and kept the action from the over gas that in common with heavy loads in the AR family. The advantage of the clamp on is less stress to the barrel and ease of installation of course.
      Like I was mentioning earlier about the 6mm AR is mainly for varmint hunting of course the other choice is the 6×45 in that. But for wild hogs I think your choice of the 6.5 Grendel is a good one for hogs, should be a killer no doubt. I think you will like the start slow end fast characteristics of the cartridge. While I will bad mouth my barrel it is not really that inaccurate or bad it is just not up to what I wanted. Alexander Arms was aiming for the hunting market not the Match crew I just bought the wrong choice should have went with a satern or some other vendors for my purposes.
      Thinking this a bit you mention the 16″ I would recommend that you re-think that and go with a 18″ you’ll find better ballistics and handling than a 2″shorter barrel. Gas port Location in a rifle length vs carbine will help with the operation a bit, resulting in a cleaner (less hicups) running rifle across a broad range of rifle.

      Components usually you can order brass from Alexander Arms cheaper than elsewhere and it is Lapula. Dies I bought the Hornady they work well, but in hind sight should have went with the Redding S-type to control neck tension better.

    • #28394
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      The rifle length gas was what I was coming back to mention especially if you intend to use cast I very much wish I had an 18″ with rifle gas vs the 16″ mid for the 6.8 SPC. 1 of these days I’ll spring for the adjustable gas so I can get that last 75 fps ….. :).
      I’m actually right at the maximum performance I can get out of the rifle at this point , which is sort of a problem as there is room for increased velocities in the cartridge even with cast and the fast rifle powder of choice .
      Thebarrel is a tough call in the AR platform. It’s not as easy as 223 family gets a 20″ ,308 ges 22″ ,06′ gets 24 and most mags get 26″ ….. as a general guide for optimal performance in a case family. The gas length plays a huge role in the muzzle performance because it is the limiting factor in powder speed bullet weights and peak pressure. .
      I know this will sound redundant bordering on oxymoron but cast and jacketed may as well be different cartridgesin an AR where a particular set up is peaking in a cartridge and bullet weight well within the operating system window a cast bullet will be believe it or not at the upper edge of the windows as far as the action goes . The adjustable gas block allows that to be altered without changing everything. Buffers and recoil springs must be balanced with the cartridge and upper . Different parts for pistols and heavy carbines while nominal carbines and rifles will share lowers .

    • #28395
      Fishman
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      Rattlesnake Charlie;n7478 wrote:

      Time and other commitments. I work on the project as time permits. I wish to get it right the first time.

      Well I certainly understand that, and building the AR is a large part of the fun, so why rush it. Some folks who haven’t built an AR tend to think it is harder and more time consuming than it is and that was the purpose of my comment. Others who read this thread might misconstrue why the time frame is so long.

    • #28442
      Sgt. Mike
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      Charlie I suggest you get your parts now or you might not be able to, may not be able to find, or afford them soon

    • #28449
      Fishman
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      I agree with Sgt. Mike. I have been watching PSA for an upper for a lower I’m building out for my wife and pulled the trigger yesterday on a good buy. Today there are much fewer options but the good news is that the “premium” uppers are mostly still in stock. As I stated before, I’d get enough parts to get the gun operational and then upgrade over time. It will take you about 2 hours to build your first gun going as slow as you want, particularly if you buy the upper pre-made.

    • #28459
      Sgt. Mike
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      this is from the guy that might, have 80% receivers sitting around with select parts.

      Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn’t pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same. said by some old guy in the 1980’s

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