This topic contains 5 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  reloader762 1 year, 10 months ago.

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  • #48589
    • Bronze
    • Posts: 4
    • Comments: 24
    • Overall: 28

    Like Matthew Quigly I don’t have much use for pistols, and unlike him I can’t shoot them either but I’m getting started casting for the 9mm.  I have been using the Lee 358-125-RF because of recommendations by people loading for the 9mm who say a larger bullet is needed to prevent leading.

    I have been  lubing and sizing in a .360 die, then running through a .358 push through die and they seem to shoot with no leading but the flat on front of the bullet seems to be giving some feed problems and I am having to seat pretty deeply to get them to chamber right.  I  was wondering if anyone has tried the Lee .356 bullets designated as 9mm bullets, specifically the 356-124-2R TL.

    Is it a try and see type situation, or are there generalities?  The pistol is a Taurus 111 Millennium G2 if that matters.

  • #48598
    • Gold
    • ★★★
    • Posts: 187
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    • Overall: 615

    Yes, I have a a TC .356 (thou not Lee’s) and it works ok for me – I need to make some more up and powder coat them.

    Due to my addiction to subsonic loadings I’m actually using mostly 147-160 grain bullets now days. And I try and match a factory load to my molds profile then use the factory ammo as a guide to COAL that will work in most pistols.

  • #48600
    • Gold
    • ★★★
    • Posts: 56
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    • Overall: 587

    I shoot the Lee 9mm round nose, standard loob groove, in a Hi-Power.

    It runs just fine.

    And, like ALL auto-pistol cast reloads, I do use a crimp die for reliable cycling.

  • #48601
    • Silver
    • ★★
    • Posts: 2
    • Comments: 258
    • Overall: 260

    I have it, mostly it sits unused.

    I have a hipoint carbine in 9mm that will eat anything. It don’t care. I could use this mold for the carbine.

    I also have a Hipoint c9 pistol and this mold keyholed bad in it.
    I also have a stubb job 9mm barrel for H&R single shot rifle. It also keyholed, terrible accuracy.

    When I tried using instead the .358 125 gr .357 bullet cast actual .359 to .3595 my keyholes went away, groups tightened up, problems all vanished.

    So I just cast them all from the bigger mold.

    And the 9mm sits there.

    Mostly mine are loaded as cast unless it is causing a problem, ie won’t go into the brass with wrinkling.

  • #48603
    • Bronze
    • Posts: 4
    • Comments: 24
    • Overall: 28

    The .356 molds might be worth a try.  I have found a load that seems to work ( 20 rounds ) and will experiment a little more. I increased the powder charge .2g and the misfeeds seem to have gone away.

    I also use the factory crimp die, but with the .358 bullets, even after sizing in a .358 die, the Factory Crimp die will pull the bullets on about 1 out of 15 or 20.  I have never had that problem before.  I am assuming that the bullet is over size and the FCD is sizing it down along with the brass, and then it is a loose fit and comes out when the ram is lowered.  It only seems to happen on those cartridges which are harder to fit into the FCD, which would indicate an overly large bullet.

  • #48622
    • Bronze
    • Posts: 15
    • Comments: 80
    • Overall: 95

    I like Lee molds, if I didn’t I wouldn’t own 14 of them.  The 9mm molds are the only ones I ever had problems with they just wouldn’t cast a bullet large enough to not keyhole about 3/4 of the time so I sold the 2 off I had and just bought me an NOE 4 banger with two gas check and two plain base bullets.

    I shoot the plain base in the 9mm sized to .357  and the gas check version sized to .359 in the 357 Mag.  I use tradition lube or PC and can’t tell the difference.  I would have been more than happy to stick with the Lee if they had worked, I shoot these out of a CANIK TP9SA and Ruger BH in 357/9mm convertible.

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