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The crimp groove is difficult to remove without compromising the perfect balance of the bullets that drop from your mold and it’s about #5 on the list of things wrong with that design. Next time you design though, if you can’t justify a reason to do something to your bullet then don’t do it.

Of course the .180 meplat is fine for 100 yards. It’s just that 100 is so close, you may not see the difference between the two. The further away you get, the easier it is to get bit by bad bullet design. There are many people who shoot an “impressive” 50 yard group that will not print the same loads at 100 yards and for very good reason. Same goes for 100 vs, 200 and further.
My philosophy is, design for the long range shot and you’ll have the short range shot in the bag. Same with loading. Those who shoot far can shoot really well close. Not so much the other way around.

Why would you cringe at shooting your rifle and cartridge and bullet with the propellant that all three were obviously designed for? Notice I said to shoot BLACK POWDER. That means real black powder. Not Pyrodex, 777, blackhorn, or any other kind of wonder crap that people call black powder. There is a huge difference. I can scope any bore and tell you if it has been shot with Pyrodex EVER IN ITS LIFE. The stuff is like corrosive priming, except it never quits. Do not shoot Pyrodex in your rifle and do not think it’s the same thing as Goex or Swiss.
With real Holy Black, when you are done shooting, remove the forend from your rifle and put the barrel down in a plastic bucket full of steaming soapy water and mop the bore from the receiver end. This will totally neutralize the fowling and clean your rifle barrel perfectly.
Once you’re finished with that, spray the action and barrel down inside and out with Eds Red, push through a few patches, blow it out with an air hose, and wipe the gun down with a cotton cloth, reattach your forend and you’re done.
The whole process takes about 20 minutes tops and costs practically nothing.

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