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You should not depend on color for annealing. With brass, the color is all over the place.
The best way is to use templaque pens to determine the actual temperature of the metal, and get that tied to a time in the flame. Once you get calibrated, you rock on no matter what it looks like.
This is especially important with nickel because you can’t see jack squat in color change. In fact, you might go too far and damage your brass and not know it, so be careful.
Finally, I have found no discernible advantage to annealing brass. There are occasions where I would, but they are rare. FOr instance, I might anneal if I was absolutely determined to eke out every last little bit of brass life from a certain batch (500 Jeffery comes to mind), or if I’m making a custom wildcat that requires a lot of brass movement in the neck and shoulder area, but if I’m shooting for precision with a common cartridge, the cost of getting to the venue where I will be demonstrating or seeking to experience the awesome performance a certain rifle is capable of, pales in comparison with the cost of 100 pieces of brass.
Further, if I were doing so, I would not be using nickel plated brass in the first place. That’s hunting fodder.