This topic contains 14 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  kens 8 months, 1 week ago.

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  • #47045
     Goodsteel 
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    Don’t lie. I’ll bet we all carry one. My personal pocket pistol is a Ruger LCP 380, and its ALWAYS on me. I tuck my S&W 1076 when I can, but unless there’s a metal detector, that little gun is on me.

    I apply the same philosophy to the LCP that I do to everything else: Big heavy bullet as fast as I can get away with, but big and heavy. I err on the side of penetration. I’d rather have a solid flat nose projectile than a HP. I want complete pass throughs, with most of the energy left in the dude that needed shot, but complete pass throughs and heavy energy deposit. Everybody has their own philosophy on this, but I think the John Moses Browning was spot on with his 45 ACP. Nothing works like a big heavy slug, even if it isn’t moving very fast.

    So, my load for the little LCP is 3.2gr of Unique under a 125gr flat nosed jacketed bullet. Its moving about 770 FPS.

     

     

  • #47047
     kens 
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    I don’t reload any of the smaller calibers, I just buy FMJ for that stuff. I’m with you on the penetration thing, the exit hole is always bigger than entry anyways. Now that obama is gone, the price of ammo has down to the point you can’t hardly reload anything smaller than .45acp for it to be worth your while to cast & load. .44cal and upwards is the expensive stuff that I want to take the time to handload.

  • #47050
     Goodsteel 
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    While I agree the price and availability has improved, I can’t find store bought rounds to do what I expect my loads to do. I want 10mm that sends a 200 grain bullet out there at 1200 fps. I want 125gr 380acp that cooks ’em off at 775fps. I want 1/2MOA rifle loads.

    You just can’t buy that at the store no matter how much you spend.

  • #47056
     Larry Gibson 
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    I’ve been carrying this AMT “Backup” since ’80.  It’s almost always in my back pants or coat pocket.  While I dearly love my Colt Combat Commander 45 ACP many times it just isn’t practical to carry it.

     

    I’ve been carrying Winchester 85 gr Silver Tip HP +P in it since I got it.  It’s one of the first AMT’s when quality was there.  Recently I purchased some new HV 45 gr total fragmenting .380 ACP ammo but have not tested it.

     

     

    Larry Gibson

     

  • #47059
     Glenn 
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    My little Pocket Pistol is a Star PD 45acp.

    It’s only 1# 6.3 oz empty, and 1# 13.5oz loaded with 6 rounds of 230 JHPs

    I have been playing with some 275 LFNs in the longslide, but I’d hate to hurt the little thing so it gets fed 230 jhps.

  • #47062
     GhostHawk 
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    Well no I don’t carry a pocket pistol.

    State of North Dakota got smart, gave all of us solid upstanding citizens with a drivers license the right to carry concealed no permit required. With the usual restrictions on locations, schools, bars, gaming, etc.

     

    Which I actually appreciated. But I do not feel that in Fargo ND I have to have a gun in my pocket to walk out my door.  Or I don’t want to believe that I do. Not sure which is true.

     

    I split the difference, I found a couple of inexpensive “car guns” that I can have stashed in each car, so we have them if we need them. And if I am paying attention I should have the 5-8 seconds I need to get it out and ready.

     

     

    Yes it shoots .22lr, and I load it with 1200 fps Federal Auto Champion target rounds. Each one goes into a small zippered bag, has 2 10 shot mags, plus a 100 round plastic box of ammo. Each slips into the door pocket on the drivers side and rides there securely.  Almost invisible, each is empty in the chamber, but with a full mag in the gun. So one quick pull and release and it is ready to go.

     

    It is as far as I am willing to go for now. Inside the house, yes, there is more, lots more.  Mostly what I worry about is holding what I have. And I intend to do so.

     

    3 Rem 870 shotguns, 3 H&R Single shot shotguns, pair of Mosin’s, a fine Yugo SKS, pair of Hipoint Carbines in 9mm and .40sw, pair of Win 94 lever guns in .30-30. And a variety of Single shot rifles in a variety of calibers. Enough ammo to fight a small war.

     

    I’ve done what I can do.  I sleep good at night, YMMV.

  • #47063
     GhostHawk 
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    I neglected to say that by my recliner there is a CZ-52 with 8 shots of HP factory ammo, cocked locked and on safe it is READY to go. Close to it is a Hipoint C9 pistol in a case with 3 extra mags, it too is fully loaded, cocked and on safe, ready to roll. This one only has my 9mm reloads in it as they shoot a significantly tighter group than most factory loads I have tried. It likes the bullets big, keyholes .357’s and down.  So these are loaded with the .358 125 rn flat point .357 mag bullet that actually cast closer to .360. 3.5 grains of Red Dot and CCI primers.

     

    If I need more in the basement is a Springfield Armory 1911 .45acp. Yeah I trust John M Browning too.  I have a couple of boxes of PPU factory loads for this. But I keep loaded my lee 230 gr .452 cast over some 4 grains of Red Dot.

     

    But IMO pistols are for getting me to the shotgun or the SKS.  I get my hands on either one of those someone is going to be in some serious hurt.

     

    Last I always have a cheap 15$ Chinese Ganzo G728 assisted open knife on me.

    I have honed this on the barber strop until it is just short of razor sharp. Which is exactly where I like it. IMO a true razor sharp knife gives up some durability to gain that super sharp fine edge.

  • #47066
     Goodsteel 
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    I agree with you to a point (pun intended) on knife sharpening GH. I began my illustrious sordid career in front of a blacksmith forge in my teens hammering out blades and learning how to make them cut. Arkansas is the knifemaking capitol of the world and we have more mastersmiths in this state than any other one place on the globe. The American Bladesmith Society is a pretty big deal here, and they are pretty rigorous in their expectations. In order to attain the title of journeyman Bladesmith, the prospective student’s best knife will be tested to destruction in a variety of durability and cutting tests. The cutting tests are something that bladesmiths study long and hard and invest hours and hours of time in discovering how to fashion a blade that will cleave deep without losing its edge or causing any effort to the user whatsoever. I was taught by one John Fitch who won the cutting competitions for several years running. He explained that the shape of the entire blade has a lot to do with how deeply it will sink into material or flesh for a given poundage of force, but he also said that just like our brass prep and seating dies, the earlier in the process an action occurs, the more effect it will have on the results, so that fine edge matters a lot.

    I agree with you that there is such a thing as being “too sharp”. That is, two mirror polished edges that come to a perfect apex will not cut as well as if those surfaces (which are the sides of the edge) have a slight texture to them, or miniature serrations if you will.

    The edge that I place on my knife is produced with a 600 grit orange india stone, then stropped to straighten the rolled edge, then lightly dusted with a ceramic Spyderco triangle (the course one). This, coupled with the proper blade geometry produces an knife that will slip cleanly through cloth, hide, flesh, and sinue. It doesn’t shave hair very well, but it isn’t meant to.

    A razor edge is just too smooth for it’s own good, and cannot pilot the cut material away from the edge fast enough. Sure it’ll give you a cut that bleeds like the dickens, but it won’t be very deep, nor (as you pointed out) will it hold up for very long.

    Sorry for the long post, but sharpening things is a very big part of what I do.

    My personal defense knife is an old Gerber boot knife. There are no markings on it except a serial number but I believe it’s referred to as the Command I.

  • #47070
     Harter 
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    We have an LCP and a G42 in 380 .
    Shortly after getting the LCP I bought 250 rounds of Privi Partizan 90 gr HP as CYA defense . These are usable for Mary . I give props for learning to shoot them , having been handicapped by being hit by a truck , stomped by cows twice with parts missing in one wrist locked solid with pins and plates and run over by a horse and carriage .
    The loaded mag is full of the $0.50 a shot HP as is the second the 3rd mag is 358-90 RF NOEs at 95gr and 3.5 gr of Unique .
    Without a CCW these are console box/bedroom guns . When open carry is appropriate depending on the needs I have an BHP that is on its last load of 147 HP , backed with a 358-125 RNFP over 4.5 gr Unique in the second mag .
    My preferred is the XD 40 with 401-175 at 181 gr over 5.7 Unique for 980 fps and consistent 4″ groups at 25yd .
    Doubles fall with in 8″ up and down at 10 so I figure that ought to do .

  • #47075
     GhostHawk 
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    Mr Goodsteel sir I bow to the Master.

     

    I am just a simple farmboy who learned early on that you can only trust what someone else says when it is backed up with your own experience.

     

    You and I are in complete agreement.

     

    For a great many of my knife sharpening years a medium Arkansas stone was my prefered tool.  Still have what remains of a couple of them.  One got dropped and is in pieces.

     

    I have tried everything from Lansky system to Japanese water stones.

     

    Mostly nowdays I use a set of 3 plastic handled tools that have a V of intersecting steel, mostly just use the fine smooth one.

     

    A few strokes on an old fashioned butchers steel, a few zip’s across the V to set the edges right, and then hit the strop to smooth out the wire edge and polish a little.

     

    For over 50 years I was a high carbon steel snob. Then I discovered that if you get stainless really sharp. And once a month or so just give it a strop on general principles  That it tends to stay really sharp.

     

    What I really hated was those long sessions working with hard stainless that had been used and abused for far too long with no love at all.  Where I could bring back High Carbon steel in 20 minutes stainless would take hours.

     

    The trick is just to not let it get in that shape.

  • #47076
     kens 
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    have you guys been watching that cable TV show ‘Forged in Fire’ ??

    is that all TV made up stuff, or, is it kinda real?

  • #47077
     Goodsteel 
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    Kens, I don’t have TV, so I couldn’t tell you, but I can almost guarantee that if its on the tube, it’s staged and any similarity to real life is carefully planned and cut to be entertaining.

    I’ve had no less than a dozen people ask what my opinion of that show is, but honestly, I don’t have time to watch the tube. I’m too busy doing it for real.

  • #47079
     Rattlesnake Charlie 
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    For the Kel-Tec P3-AT is use Winchester white box, a 95 gr FMJ which has a large flat point. I believe that this caliber just doesn’t have enough penetration with hollow points.

    For the Kel-Tec PF-9 and P-11 it is a Speer Short Barrel 124 gr +P JHP in the tube then alternating those with Hornady Critical Duty 135 gr.

  • #47080
     Goodsteel 
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    That’s exactly my opinion RC. Flat point solids are the way to go with the 380. It just does’t have the pop it needs to open a HP and carry through.

  • #47081
     kens 
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    I had a Rock Island .380 1911, and it would not feed those white box FP Winchesters.

    Rock Island sent my money back, less applicable taxes and fees.

     

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